Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, got a little problem with my rb20 its getting a little bit hot.

idles around 78-82 which is okay but when i hold the the revs for a while the temps skyrockets... i can be on the freeway doin 80ks and the temp will be 95c on a 15 degree day! but as soon as i take my foot of the throttle and let it coast it drops down to 80ish.

the coolant was flushed 20000ks ago so should be fine

i did a little poking around the engine bay and found that the turbo water line thats behind the block was farked, i changed it but still no change.

im planning on changing the radiator pipes and doing a flush but i honestly doubt it will do anything...

im pretty confident its been bleed properly but its hard to be sure! im getting the temp readings from a nissan consult thing so i suppose its possible the sensor is farked but i doubt it...

thinking about the thermostat but it seems to be opening ok when it gets up to temp.

just really want to get this fixed before summer!!!

any ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/238456-overheating-problem/
Share on other sites

Sounds like the radiator is partially blocked, just cause they've got coolant in them doesn't mean it won't block up over time. Had the exact same problem with an old Ford and I dicked around replacing everything else but as soon as I put a new core in the problem was solved.

Check your plugs heat range, check oil level. Check radiator, How's your oil pressure? Could also be a blown head gasket.

plugs are good maybe 4000ks old still should be fine they are the correct heat range.

oil lvl is fine but does need to be changed which will be done this weekend.

radiator lvl is fine and i have replaced the cap.

not sure about oil pressure, don't have a gauge.

doubt it would be a headgasket, coolant seems fine, but ill check the oil for water when i change it this weekend.

could be the water pump but when i have the cap off and give it a rev you can see the water moving, and it looks like its moving alot faster than my mates rb20 whos water pump is only 30000ks old....

i reckon ill have to swap the radiator and thermostat and go from there, dont really want to do the water pump looks like a big job.

what do people think of those cheap china radiators, ISC sells them for $299

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Is...rs-t216102.html

i figure its going to cost close to $200 to get mine flushed and tanks replaced so may as well go new?

Not sure about it being the water pump. If the pump was stuffed bad enough to be causing that kind of temp fluctuation then the bearing would be howling like a stuck pig.

Rough check for thermostat is to drop it in a saucepan of water and bring it to the boil, the stat should open before the water boils. If you have a suitable thermometer you can check the exact operating temp of the stat. Note...thermometer must be one thats rated for cooking.

Pull the radiator and have it checked by a specialist. If they think it can be fixed properly then stick with that one and not the China version. Nissan's OEM gear is HIGH quality.

Not sure about it being the water pump. If the pump was stuffed bad enough to be causing that kind of temp fluctuation then the bearing would be howling like a stuck pig.
Usual problem is the fins rust away off the impeller. Coz the japs don't like using "green stuff".
Usual problem is the fins rust away off the impeller. Coz the japs don't like using "green stuff".

yeh when i bought it there was fark all coolant in it, mostly water... the radiator pipes are full of rusty shit, im gonna do the thermostat tomorrow and if its still no good ill get the rad looked at and if that doesn't work ill do the water pump and may as well do timing belt to.....

so i did the thermo today, old one looked okay so i put them both in boiling water couldn't get the them to open... must not have been hot enough but i put the new one in anyway, ill test it tomorrow when the gasket goo dries..

does anyone know an easy way to change this hose its the small black one thats circled, it looks like im gonna have to pull the plenum off....

post-22242-1223114891_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You just need to remove the compressor housing, not the entire turbo. I would not be drilling and tapping anything with the housing still on anyways. 
    • So, I put my boat on a boat. First of all, I'm going to come out and say it. Why is Tasmania not considered a holy goal, an apex that all road-legal modified cars go to, to experience? This place is an absolute wonderland of titanic proportions. If people are already getting club runs for once in a lifetime 30 person cruises to Tassy then I've never seemed to see it. It is like someone replaced the entire place with an idyllic wonderland for cars, and all of the people living there with paid actors who are kind, humble, and friendly. Dear god. After doing a lap of almost all of the place I've found that it's a great way to find out all of the little things that the car isn't doing quite right and a great way to figure it all out. All in all, I drove for 4 hours a day for a week and nothing broke. I didn't even need to open the engine bay. This is by all means a great success, but it has left me with a list of things to potentially address. I also now have a 3D printed wheel fitment tool which annoyingly hasn't got any threads in it to actually assemble it. I might be able to tape it together to check the sizing I actually want to use, but it'll likely involving pulling the shocks out to properly measure travel at least at the front, and probably raise the car while I'm at it, at least in the rear. I scraped on quite a few things and I'm not sure how else to go about it. I was taking anything with a bump at what felt like 89 degree angles. And address those 10 other tasks. And wash the car. God damn it is dirty. And somehow, the weather was perfect the entire time - And because I was on the top of Mt Wellington it turns out it was very much about to freeze up there. I did something I typically never do and took some photos up there in what must have been -10 and the foggy felt like suspended ice, rather than mere fog. If you own a car in Australia, you owe it to yourself to do it.
    • Damn that was hilarious, and a bit embarrassing for skylines in general 😂 vintage car life ey. That R33 really stomped. Pretty entertaining stuff
    • Hi, I have a r32 gtr transmission. Does any of you guys have an idea how much power it will hold with the billet center plate and stock gearset? At what power level and use did yours brake with or without billet plate? Thanks, Oystein Lovik
    • Saw this replica police car based on a Mitsubishi Starion XX parked next to a 'police box' (it's literally a box) in Hirohata, Himeji City in Hyogo prefecture the other day. It's owned by Morii-san who is a local Mitsubishi Starion enthusiast. According to a local radio station blog post, he always wanted to make a police car himself based on ones he saw in his favourite Manga comics.  As it's illegal to modify a car to look like a police car and drive on the road, Morii-san tried many times to get permission from Aboshi police station headquarters nearby. They refused initially by after they got tired of that they granted him permission. However, the car can only be displayed on private property and obviously can't be registered as long as the police livery is present. The car was completed at a cost of 1.5 million yen (US$ 10,000) in addition to the car cost. A location was chosen outside Hirohata Police box where the car can easily been seen from the street. Morii-san has two other Starion road cars, both widebody GSR-VRs.
×
×
  • Create New...