Jump to content
SAU Community

2 1/4" Cat Back Quote

Vik

By Vik,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Vik Mentor

Vik

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, i got a quote for a 2 1/4" Cat back exhaust with a canon from Bankstown Mufflers for $350. As i have no clue what price range i should be paying, do you think this is reasonable?

What difference would it make from getting it done at a Muffler shop, then buying say a HKS exhaust for $900 ?

To be blunt, isnt it the same peice of metal ?

MRXTCZ

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/238831-2-14-cat-back-quote/
Share on other sites
GTS4WD Grand Master

GTS4WD

Posted
Posted

What is quote for?

Mild Steel?

Stainless Steel?

Press bent?

Mandrel bent?

2 1/4 is small for a 2.5L, even f it is only a cat back. May aswell just get a new mufler on the stock pipeing.

The main diffrence will be sound quality. A deep smooth growl vs. farting in a tin as most generic mufflers end up sounding like.

Vik Mentor

Vik

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well thats what i was thinking, i want 2.5.. cause right now its running i think a 3 or 3.5 inch catback with a 4 inch canon. And it is sooooooo annoying. I used to envy 34's with stock exhausts :(

Cop attention like no tomorrow.

So im looking around to get the best for my money.

MRXTCZ

N-DAWG Mentor

N-DAWG

Posted
Posted
Well thats what i was thinking, i want 2.5.. cause right now its running i think a 3 or 3.5 inch catback with a 4 inch canon. And it is sooooooo annoying. I used to envy 34's with stock exhausts :(

Cop attention like no tomorrow.

So im looking around to get the best for my money.

MRXTCZ

No wonder you're getting done by cops all the time! Bankstown + Skyline + Loud exhaust + non-enclosed pod filter. It sucks, but cops like those sorta cars =/

If it was me, I would get a 2.5" Mandrel Bent with resonators to tone it done. I'm even considering a high-flowing oval barrel twin tip muffler just to keep it looking factory when I get my exhaust done.

You shouldn't have too much problem selling a R34 3" exhaust second hand, that should help fund the new system.

As was mentioned previously, jap brand exhausts do have a lot of R&D put into them, which translates into $$$ plus you will also pay for the brand too to an extent. A custom made exhaust from your local reputable exhaust place will probably be made from materials more suited to Aussie conditions, and they should also really be ensuring it is within dB limits enforced by law so that you don't have any trouble.

Vik Mentor

Vik

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah the one i got on the 34 now is a Kakimoto one lols.

How much do you reckon i can fetch for the Kakimoto canon and 3" ?

What would you recommend? Sell the exhaust first? or get the new exhaust done and tell the exhaust shop to gimme the exhaust so i can sell it :(

But it will definately be an upgrade, coz right now i like the sound, but it gets a lil too loud and too much attention.

MRXTCZ

N-DAWG Mentor

N-DAWG

Posted
Posted
Yeah the one i got on the 34 now is a Kakimoto one lols.

How much do you reckon i can fetch for the Kakimoto canon and 3" ?

What would you recommend? Sell the exhaust first? or get the new exhaust done and tell the exhaust shop to gimme the exhaust so i can sell it :(

But it will definately be an upgrade, coz right now i like the sound, but it gets a lil too loud and too much attention.

MRXTCZ

If you can get someone lined up to buy your old one at the same time, then you're in luck. Definitely don't let the exhaust shop keep the old one!

I imagine the kakimoto one would be a bolt on exhaust, so it will be easy to remove and for the buyer to sell.

Either way a new exhaust has to go on first though.

Have a look at FS threads to see how much they usually go for. Check to see if there's any WTB's for R34 zorst, you might be in luck.

N-DAWG Mentor

N-DAWG

Posted
Posted
Alright sweet minds made up. 2.5" it is.

Secondly, im gonna' sell the current one so i can get the money and add it to the money i was willing to spend, just to get something a lil better :wacko:

MRXTCZ

I think $350-400 is a reasonable budget for a good custom made cat back. Any extra money could really be put towards improving other parts of your cars performance.

I'm not sure how much you'll get for your 2nd hand kakimoto, but being that it's an aftermarket item you should be able to get a decent figure for it.

That's what I would do anyways..maybe put the extra $$ towards some extractors. Though extractors can be quite pricey once you add HPC and fitting, but you'll get more out of that then spending much more on the catback imo.

Vik Mentor

Vik

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah no details. But ive heard pretty nasty things aswell

But regardless. Im gonna' be phoning around and finding out prices. And will probably post up some rough prices here when i get the chance for future reference.

MRXTCZ

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      $5 Clock upgrade for R32 GTR

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • ToothDR32
      $5 Clock upgrade for R32 GTR

      By ToothDR32 · Posted

      Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...