Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone, got a small problem.

On cruise, my oil pressure is usually around 800 KPa at bout 3grand, and now, when i boost it, not to the boards, jus high revs and about a bar, it gets to a point where it drops to 600 then 400 and I back off.

This is bad and it never did it before, usually always stayed at 800.

The oil is smack on H. When I free rev the engine, its stays at 800.

So I overfilled by 0.75L, and its not dropping anymore when boosting, but this is just a bandaid fix.

I dont believe there is anything wrong with the engine itself, ie bearings and oil pump etc, as the engine is 8000km old and built by the best.

I do have a set of tomei baffles in the sump. Is it possible the rubber flaps have failed? But if they have, would it cause this? Just thinking from factory there are no flaps or gates etc.

A crack in the oil pickup?

I know im probably going to have to pull the sump off, just trying to get some insight first.

Cheers,

Mat.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/238968-dropping-oil-pressure/
Share on other sites

The oil is 500km old. Its the same oil ive been using in the engine since the rebuild, and havent had a problem until now. So I doubt the oil would have much to do with it?

There is full pressure during free revving (car stationary) as stated above. If there was a problem with the oil im using id have low pressure all the time? Correct me if im wrong. Im thinking more towards this being a starvation problem.

I have notced my gauge seems to drop really low at times, i have put it down to the sensor or gauge not reading right, but if i was you i would take it back to who ever built the engine just to be sure, if they didnt use new sensors and oil pump on the rebuild then they deserve to have to pay for it now.

Its Ausfield Extreme Synthetic, i think its a 5w50. Like I said, ive had no problems until now. And it wasnt doing it immediately after the oil change if you were thinking a bad batch of oil or something.

The readings are off my defi guage which is also 8000kms old so no issue there.

I will be contacting the builder later this week when im not working till 530, thought id get some opinions before then.

Cheers for the help so far.

Every modified GTR should be run with an extra litre in the std sump.

I thought this was common knowledge by now......

This is the first I have read about it, but if that's true I need to go put another litre in mine. But how would that effect his oil pressure? or is the extra oil just for impurities from a recent build?

Edited by James_03

Well I thought that overfilling was for modded and tracked GTRs without baffles of some sort...and I wouldnt have thought if you didnt that it would cause this problem but anyways, problem sorted I guess.

Cheers Ben.

Every modified GTR should be run with an extra litre in the std sump.

I thought this was common knowledge by now......

But, does this apply to track only? And is it the same if you have an oil catch can? Wouldn't the extra oil just go into an oil catch can? (sorry, my mechanical knowledge is not the best)

But, does this apply to track only? And is it the same if you have an oil catch can? Wouldn't the extra oil just go into an oil catch can? (sorry, my mechanical knowledge is not the best)

The problem with these and gtst's (worse on gtst's tho) is that there is not enough drainage from the head to the sump, add to that a big volume oil pump and constant high revs and before you know it all the oil is somewhere around the head, from what i have read there is no harm in putting and extra .5 ltr of oil in for daily use but for track use and extra 1 to 1.5 ltrs is best, i put an extra .5 ltr in my gtst and it does not have any blow by.

Whilst for normal driving it is not really needed it does not hurt to put some extra in for those "excitable" moments :blink:

Edited by W0rp3D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...