Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Have been having an overheating issue with my R34 sedan (mechanically stock) which isn't your standard 'runs hot temp gauge goes up' problem. Once the temp gauge goes up to the first high mark it will then fall back to operating temp after a minute or so - pop the hood and coolant is still sitting at the normal fill line. I can't find any leaks under the car when it's running. Oil temp sits below 100deg.

It's rather perplexing that the gauge goes up and down again... has anyone any advice for what to look for?

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you for the assistance so far.

Blocked radiator may explain it, pain in the ass to get it to a radiator shop for a few weeks though due to work/other commitments (thankfully we have another car).

There doesn't appear to be any correlation between throttle or use of accessories and the fluctuation in the temp, it simply climbs steadily over a minute or so, sits close to high for a few minutes before dropping over about the same period and sitting on operating temp.

It's only started doing it in the last week, and the car was serviced about a month ago (still trying to find out from the workshop if this included a coolant flush - I would usually assume it does).

Having a search around for guides to bleed the air - any specifically recommended for R34?

Cheers

You can test the gauge by earthing out the wrie at the sender. So maybe you have a wire that is shorting to earth, but somehow stops. Could simply be a faulty gauge, or a faulty sender.

I'm going for air in the system or thermostat too. If the thermostat is sticking the temp will rise badly but then it springs open and all is good again. Does it happen multiple times on a drive or just the once from cold?

I'm going for air in the system or thermostat too. If the thermostat is sticking the temp will rise badly but then it springs open and all is good again. Does it happen multiple times on a drive or just the once from cold?

It happens a few times on a drive, seems to be caught in a cycle, not just at the start of driving

soz for high jacking the thread.

but im having a simliar problem, with the temp going upto 130 degrees while driving on the freeway at 100km/h

at 60-70k's around 2300rpm, the car stay at about 110 degrees. but once i go on a slope..the temp shoots up and the car knocks like crazy

the car normally stays at about 85-95 degrees, but all this started happening after i gave the car shit yesterday

giving the car shit shouldnt suddenly block the radiator lol? so what else could it be?

i have flush the radiator but i cant test the car atm, have to wait til tomorrow.

cheers

soz for high jacking the thread.

but im having a simliar problem, with the temp going upto 130 degrees while driving on the freeway at 100km/h

at 60-70k's around 2300rpm, the car stay at about 110 degrees. but once i go on a slope..the temp shoots up and the car knocks like crazy

the car normally stays at about 85-95 degrees, but all this started happening after i gave the car shit yesterday

giving the car shit shouldnt suddenly block the radiator lol? so what else could it be?

i have flush the radiator but i cant test the car atm, have to wait til tomorrow.

cheers

Was the radiator full?

soz for high jacking the thread.

but im having a simliar problem, with the temp going upto 130 degrees while driving on the freeway at 100km/h

at 60-70k's around 2300rpm, the car stay at about 110 degrees. but once i go on a slope..the temp shoots up and the car knocks like crazy

the car normally stays at about 85-95 degrees, but all this started happening after i gave the car shit yesterday

giving the car shit shouldnt suddenly block the radiator lol? so what else could it be?

i have flush the radiator but i cant test the car atm, have to wait til tomorrow.

cheers

It should be able to hold thermostatted temperature at freeway speeds, or up hills even. Sounds like a failed water pump. The fins have probably fallen off the impeller wheel, so it can't move water around.

Or are you running a thermo fan? My experience is that the risk of cooking an engine isn't worth the couple of kW you get by replacing the factory fan with a thermo.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...