Jump to content
SAU Community

Transfer Case Rebuild Or Upgrades Who Does Them?

some_cs_student

By some_cs_student,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

some_cs_student Veteran

some_cs_student

Posted
Posted

Hey,

Just wondering, my transfer case has been making some funny noises and the RE Customs is going to remove it for me, unfortunately it wasn't just the clutch that is worn :/

Anyway, does anyone know a transfer case specialist or a person who has rebuilt them before in Vic?

Any idea how much it will cost? (roughly, not sure whats wrong with it yet).

Regards,

Gareth

EDIT: Found an old post by DirtGarage saying Terry from Award Diff and Gearbox is a good place but its not in Vic, courier might cost a bit ;)

some_cs_student Veteran

some_cs_student

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks, I saw a price of $2400 for some kind of full rebuild and that scared me!

I'd rather go second hand as I'm not running huge power (250RWKW).

I'll give Ben a call tomorrow, didn't know they did transfer cases, hopefully this won't cost too much to fix :/

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
Thanks, I saw a price of $2400 for some kind of full rebuild and that scared me!

I'd rather go second hand as I'm not running huge power (250RWKW).

I'll give Ben a call tomorrow, didn't know they did transfer cases, hopefully this won't cost too much to fix :)

Anything GTR = Racepace... i cant think of a thing that cant be sorted by picking up the phone :O

some_cs_student Veteran

some_cs_student

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Racepace is my usual workshop and tuner, however they were not happy with my clutch rebuild because the car would be sitting around for a week.

RE Customs were nice enough to allow my car to stay around while the clutch was rebuilt.

Oh, feel free to close the thread, I have the info I need :D

West Grand Master

West

Posted
Posted
Racepace is my usual workshop and tuner, however they were not happy with my clutch rebuild because the car would be sitting around for a week.

RE Customs were nice enough to allow my car to stay around while the clutch was rebuilt.

Oh, feel free to close the thread, I have the info I need :D

I don't think they were not happy but its more like they don't have much space when comparing the two premises.

sloutch Mentor

sloutch

Posted
Posted
Racepace is my usual workshop and tuner, however they were not happy with my clutch rebuild because the car would be sitting around for a week.

RE Customs were nice enough to allow my car to stay around while the clutch was rebuilt.

Oh, feel free to close the thread, I have the info I need :D

Why don't you share the info you acquired with SAU members? :(

some_cs_student Veteran

some_cs_student

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Why don't you share the info you acquired with SAU members? :D

I always share with SAU members, I wasn't really been serious about closing the thread, and even if it did get closed, it doesn't get deleted :(

Anyway, spoke to Racepace and they advised that its very unlikely that the transfer case is actually broken, its more likely to be that I may have a solid centre clutch that's very harsh.

RE Customs is going to take it apart and have a look at it first, the clutch has a little bit left on it but not much.

The clutch itself actually ended up been an older pull type Nismo clutch (twin plate) a model before the super copper mix.

The symptoms were that the car was slipping / free revving on take off and anything below 3K RPM in a high gear like 4th made grinding sounds (when driving).

The car got worse when I got it back from the panel beaters (don't think it was there fault), and the clutch is nearly silent now, its always been very noisy.

But I can release the clutch and the car will creep slightly or not at all, no stalling, if I rev to 3-4K RPM and wait nearly a second, the car make's a funny sound and starts driving, and slipping quite a bit less at higher revs.

Since I've had the car its been very difficult to take off at low revs, so when the clutch was good, the car prefers closer to 3K and release the clutch quickly, any attempt to do something below this makes grinding sounds and makes the front of the car feel like its vibrating a bit. Its obviously very difficult to park.

But I thought those noises were normal for a twin plate clutch.

When the clutch is in there is no noise, and when the clutch was good a launch around 3K RPM would bog the car down a little but no noise from the clutch itself, completely silent then....

some_cs_student Veteran

some_cs_student

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I don't think they were not happy but its more like they don't have much space when comparing the two premises.

Yes, they were not happy with having the car sit around for a week or more, and I understand that because they do not have as much space as RE Customs has.

I wasn't saying Racepace is a bad workshop because they didn't want my car around there for a week :D

djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted

I went through this on my GT-R. Best advice is check the front diff before you do anything else.

Second thing to keep in ming is that the ATTESSA clutch pack has an end piece/shim. These vary in thickness & you need the right thickness to ensure the system works properly. Nissan Australia DO NOT carry stock of this part. So your car will sit in a workshop for weeks.....

some_cs_student Veteran

some_cs_student

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I went through this on my GT-R. Best advice is check the front diff before you do anything else.

Second thing to keep in ming is that the ATTESSA clutch pack has an end piece/shim. These vary in thickness & you need the right thickness to ensure the system works properly. Nissan Australia DO NOT carry stock of this part. So your car will sit in a workshop for weeks.....

djr81, did your issue end up been the front diff or the transfer case itself?

I'm hoping RacePace or Award will have the parts if required, I could always look at going second hand as well but not sure how common transfer cases are...

If it was transfer case, where your symptoms similar? Racepace have driven my car before and said no issues, so Ben believes its just a harsh clutch engagement, the transfer case is silent at higher revs only low revs.

kspots08, RacePace is located in BaysWater try searching, there phone number is on the forums, there email on the web.

djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted
djr81, did your issue end up been the front diff or the transfer case itself?

I'm hoping RacePace or Award will have the parts if required, I could always look at going second hand as well but not sure how common transfer cases are...

If it was transfer case, where your symptoms similar? Racepace have driven my car before and said no issues, so Ben believes its just a harsh clutch engagement, the transfer case is silent at higher revs only low revs.

kspots08, RacePace is located in BaysWater try searching, there phone number is on the forums, there email on the web.

Well the front diff was cactus & the clutch pack was out of tolerance which was put down to the vibration from the diff causing issues.

The symptoms were pretty vague - you get noise/vibration from the gearbox area sometimes - the sometimes being when the attessa is trying to supply a small amount of torque to the front wheels. As I said check the front diff - dropping the cover off & checking for wear/backlash is easy. Removing the gearbox/transfer case & ripping it all apart is less so.

  • 2 weeks later...
some_cs_student Veteran

some_cs_student

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well it looks like it was one of the shafts inside the transfer case making a strange noise so it looks like it was damaged and that was slipping rather than the clutch.

I bought a second-hand one off RE Customs for $400, I was offered one close to $200 but the condition was not completely known, where RE Customs had taken it off a working car.

So hopefully the car will be back soon :cheers:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • StevenJames32
      Single Turbo Conversion On R32 GTR.

      By StevenJames32 · Posted

      Hi everyone, I'm about to complete my first single turbo conversion on my R32 GTR and I thought I would post the step by steps that I will be following. I will list the parts I have / the parts I will be buying. I will be redoing this guide after I have completed the conversion. Parts list: - 3576 turbo 0.82 v-band (coolant and oil)  - v-band top mount turbo manifold - 50mm wastegate - manifold copper gasket - titanium manifold stud kit - turbosmart 3 port boost solenoid - link can lambda kit (wideband) - link ECU - radium 12AN push in valve cover fittings (pair) - hi octane catch can - 3.5inch downpipe - screamer pipe - pipe from turbo to intercooler - intake pipe setup - power steering relocation kit - oil drain block off plate - coolant and oil lines Now onto the step by step guide (please add / correct me if there's anything I missed: 1. remove fluids, twin turbo pipes, pod filters and afm's 2. remove the factory coolant hardlines from the hot side. 3. remove heat shields  4. remove the downpipe 5. remove turbos and manifolds 6. remove factory manifold studs 7. clean whatever mess you have made 8. install power steering relocation kit 9. install new manifold studs 10. install new turbo manifold with gasket 11. install new wastegate with screamer pipe 12. install new turbo  13. install new coolant and oil lines  14. install rear oil drain block off plate 15. stop and appreciate that you now have a single turbo in your GTR 16. wipe away tears of joy and install downpipe 17. install the wideband sensor into downpipe 18.install pipe to connect turbo to intercooler 19 .remove stock boost solenoid  20. install new boost solenoid 21.  install intake setup 22. setup the rest of the can lambda kit with the ecu  23. refill fluids and hope for the best 24. ask forums for help with issues 25. fix issues 26. drive your single turbo swapped r32 GTR into the sunset. Doneeeeeeeeeee. Now I know this isn't detailed at all but I will be doing that when the conversion is done. I will be posting pics and any helpful details i can and ill make sure to fit in as much information as I can. If there's anything I should know before i do this PLEASE let me know. Stay tuned for what's next. Thanks...
    • tidi0x
      Nismo GT Pro LSD configurations

      By tidi0x · Posted

      I have wasted too much time on this, more than I am willing to admit. I hope someone can set the record straight for me.  I want to replace my Nismo (non GT pro, non GT) standard 2 way in my R33 GTST with a 1.5 way... Ideally I want to get an ATS 1.5 way Carbon LSD, but I don't want to reuse my 29 spline 5x1 axle stubs, and new 30 spline 5x1's are impossible to get a hold of ($$$), and I don't want to drop the cash on going to 6x1 stubs and axles ATM. Which leads me to the Nismo GT Pro 38420-RSS15-B5 or RSS20, as they come with new axle stubs meant for the diff, and is "Convertible" from a 2 way or 1.5 way to "Other ways", but that is where I am stuck as the documentation is a bit all over the place.  To sum up what I have found I believe the all the Nismo GT Pro PN's are convertible from 2 way, 1.5 way, and 1 way; but Nismo sells 2 skus (2 & 1.5) so people do not have to disassemble to convert it.  I found this thread on 350z but it left the question unanswered. https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-drivetrain/620032-nismo-gt-pro-lsd-1-5-vs-2-way-and-torque.html  Essentially the way I think it all works out is like follows...  2 way  1 way  and 1.5 way would be the center pinion shaft in the 1 way block, but with the with the center flipped 180*. So the ramped side of the pinion would face the 1 way gate and act like a ramp.    I can only get my hands on the 2 way in the states, and I am not trying to get stuffed on tariffs by ordering from Japan or anywhere else. I want to confirm that if I get the 2 way I can convert it to the 1.5.     
    • StevenJames32
      Single Turbo Conversion On R32 GTR.

      By StevenJames32 · Posted

      Hi everyone, I have purchased my first GTR and I want to do a single turbo conversion to it. I've been doing as much research as i can and there are a few things that I can find and need to know. I need to run a coolant feed, coolant return, oil feed and oil return for my turbo setup. Here's what I know so far: On the hot side of the rb26 there is coolant feed, oil feed and oil return. Coolant return will be going around the front of the engine to where the thermostat is located. I will need to block off the rear oil return port. I will be running a turbosmart boost solenoid so any of the factory boost stuff wont be needed. Now onto what I don't know: 1. What do I do with the coolant / vacuum hardlines that run around the back of the motor?. 2. What do I block off or loop or move or remove?. I will be running the OEM intake manifold. 3. Is there anything in particular I need to buy for the cold side of the rb26?. I already have the intercooler and pipes sorted. If you have any pictures or information it would be appreciated. Thanks....  
    • Murray_Calavera
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      The fab work can be as simple as a couple of silicon hoses and clamps to the factory piping. 
    • joshuaho96
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Just sounds like either way you need to do some fab work to get everything to fit, so why limit yourself at that point? If the GCG high flow option is zero effort in and out swap though I'd probably do that. It's almost certainly lowest risk, lowest cost, etc. The HKS GTIII-RS option that Kapr mentioned is laughably expensive for what it is, they charge the exact same for two turbos on the RB26 so their margins are off the charts on that thing.
×
×
  • Create New...