Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As a soon to be Probationary driver, what engine upgrades can i do to keep me under the legal law of driving my vehicle as a first year p Plater in victoria. Oh my car is a Nissan skyline R34 GT, thanks guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240228-p-plate-performance/
Share on other sites

none...

the fact is what they cant see does not exist, keep your car stock looking in the engine bay because the only mods you can do (i mean get away with :P ) are internal because they would never look and cant see through a engine

the only thing that would give it away is sound like lumpy cams and other parts that give distinct sounds when changed.

keep that engine stock looking is all i can say if you dont want attention.

Poor poor red p's... You're screwed, if your after super awesomeness save your cash for a turbo because ur n/a will be very very difficult to sell down the track...

I thought that they'd be a bit more popular later on with restrictions and p platers wanting to drive skylines. Or maybe that would decrease the value of them with more in the market.

Its done nothing but increase the price of them, since Nissan did not manufacture many of them there is a big shortage for the new P-plate market.

There are non-turbo's selling for more than turbos in similiar condition and k's.

Great for people who are selling, bad luck for people buying.

I am also a p-plater but lucky for me I don't have the no engine mods rule. But if I were in your situation, I would be spending my money on brakes, suspension and tyres. You will actually feel the difference in the way the car drives ie carry more speed into and out of corners (i am talking about track racing here), better stopping power so you can brake later into turns, better grip all round.

Im with Ian.

Save your cash for a turbo for when you can drive it.

Max I'll spend on my N/A is 2.5-3g's...exhaust, cat, turbo brakes and maybe some nice rims.

However if you got the cash, I estimate you can get a good 130-135rwkw without opening the engine too much?? Exhaust, Cat, Extractors, Adj Exhaust cam gear (~retard 3 degrees??), new fuel pump (if yours is dying), an effective Pod and CAI setup or high peformance panel filter, and some good quality fluids. New bits and peices here and there.

^^^ - What he said. :D

Not only this but as a p plater you will be popping the hood for the police/transport/highway patrol more often than you could imagine. Extractors are blatantly obvious as are pod filters and exhaust modifications.

If you *must* put money into it a K&N style panel filter is a good option, and a cat back will look good and maybe give you a tiny bit more on the KW side of things.

I came to the realisation fairly early on that you can sink serious money into an NA skyline and at the end of it only have a (very) mild increase in power.

Save most of your cash until you get off your P's or if you must spend some money spend it on "sex spec" rather than performance spec.

Later on if you have a personal attachment to the car or bought it really really cheap, a high comp turbo build isn't out of the question. Or sell for a turbo skyline or similar import. Or there's always the RB25/30 swap that can be done for a reasonable cost.

Bottom line is being on your P's is one hell of a restriction for young people now. Hell, I remember driving V8 hot rods while on my P's. Like hell I'd get away with something like that if I was on my P's now...

guh.. I dont see what all the fuss is about..

NA mods are generally hiden from sight anyways. No cop is going to arrest you for having an exhaust, P-plater or not.

It is possible to extract a little more power without going over the top and without it being obvious too..

Sort the intake and exhaust.

Cams, adjustable gears, piggy back ECU and retune and you could net yourself 120odd kw with a good tune. If your after power figures.

From what I remeber in your last thread you dont even have the car yet, I say drive it first with stock power figures. Many people want more power out of an na before they have learnt how to extract all the power out out of stock form,

http://autospeed.com/cms/A_2351/article.html

This article might be of some interest. Whilst not specific to Skylines, it's still relevant.

It covers simple modifications that would otherwise look quite standard, but can help get performance gains without spending much.

ok i dont know much about the new p-plater rules due to being of my p's.

but from what i would req.

nistune ecu (if they have one for a r34 gt) it's a reprogamable bord that sits in side your ecu and alows for full tunning.

www.nistune.com cost is $250 for the bord in stalled and then get it tuned.

get some adj cam gears.

k&n pannel filter and maby change the intake pipeing for something of a bigger size.

and if you can get away with and exhasut and exstractors do it

and a cam thats not real lumpy or try and keep the exhasut realy quite.

thats my req brentt

After i got the cat back on mine i did the intake, n crap me it sounds sweet n breathes wayyyyy betta, just aint pods illegal in NSW on Ps??? ... think its betta 2 wait till unrestricted then do a conversion or turbo if ya want max performance upgrades tho

Any modification that changes the performance of a vehicle in NSW on a restricted provisional licence is illegal, so I can't see that a pod will make an exception. I believe that in NSW for a pod to be legal in general though, it needs to be enclosed and correctly mounted with a pod brace.

That said, if you can mod something up to make an enclosed pod look factory, go for it. Unless you're really after the nice induction sound, use a K&N Panel, and if necessary run a cold air feed into the factory box. Besides the induction sound, I doubt you're going to find much difference to performance, and the Panel in the factory box with a cold air feed will probably be better. After all it is performance that you're after.

Edited by N-DAWG
http://autospeed.com/cms/A_2351/article.html

This article might be of some interest. Whilst not specific to Skylines, it's still relevant.

It covers simple modifications that would otherwise look quite standard, but can help get performance gains without spending much.

Thank you N-DAWG for that site it really helped, and thanks to everyone who posted in this thread. Now i understand more thank you. :/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...