Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

clearance issues must have something do to with the R32 4 doors.. im having the same problem with my GTR bonnet hitting the front cam gear cover, tryed spacers at the back but doesent help

I don't think it's exclusive to 4drs as I have the same problem, I live with it as it's not that bad. Only time it is a problem is when I take my cooler piping off.. can never get it back in the right spot! It either sits the bonnet up further or it pushes the cooler pipe onto the fan shroud and makes horrible noises :P

Just had a thought.. the 5mm flatbar we used to modify the 25 gearbox mount would be changing the angle that the engine sits on as the gearbox is 5mm lower at it's mounting point.. that would probably push the front of the engine up a bit more.. does that make sense?

Edited by bubba
I don't think it's exclusive to 4drs as I have the same problem, I live with it as it's not that bad. Only time it is a problem is when I take my cooler piping off.. can never get it back in the right spot! It either sits the bonnet up further or it pushes the cooler pipe onto the fan shroud and makes horrible noises :P

Just had a thought.. the 5mm flatbar we used to modify the 25 gearbox mount would be changing the angle that the engine sits on as the gearbox is 5mm lower at it's mounting point.. that would probably push the front of the engine up a bit more.. does that make sense?

im running a front facing plenium so the only prob im having is the front cam gear cover, bonnet wont even close so cant live with it like that...

Heres some pics... gonna have a look at slotting engine brakets on the weekend

P1040459Large.jpg

P1040458Large.jpg

P1040456Large.jpg[/img]

finally my point of my post exactly (except im using 26 cam cover and rocker covers n they sit super high i can get away with 20 or 25 but the 26 ones r huge) everyone understand now?

my fabricator is just gonna make up a custom alloy sump so we can drop the motor a bit should be fine then dont really wanna space the cross member as it will put the steering geometry up the shit

thanks for your help guys

some one buy my 33 lol

Edited by MYP16

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
    • Regardless of neglect or incompetence, fixing either is tedious and annoying. Most of the neglect on my car is definitely rust. I hope I can at least pass inspections later on and they won't fail the car due to slightly corroded hardlines. I was generous with rust converter and wax and it looks ok, most lines in the rear are hard to see properly anyways.  Definitely will test them though to make sure they don't rupture under pressure, in that case the car isn't going anywhere this year.
×
×
  • Create New...