Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm opening a thread again ;)

my car got so many problems now, jeez. :P

If the engine vibrates, the interior starts to making sound (sometimes)

and right hand side door is making squicking sound (often)

I try to go to the dealer to get free maintenance but after 1 or 2 months the sound came back.

Anyone can suggest me shop or people who can check out the car and fix them so that the car won't make any more noise

Thanx

Erik

:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24036-sound-from-door/
Share on other sites

dude...u drive a 34 man...i drive a 33 thats knockin close to 7 yrs old now and the squeeks i have in mine, u can only imagine..

as for drivers door, mine used to rattle...i took it off....used electrical tape and taped every f*cken thing and joint together...

even the part at the top of the trim, where it hooks on to the metal frame of the door, i coated it with tape and all so theres no metal against metal henceforth, no chance for rattle.

but!!!

the bloody thing came back and mocked me like a b*tch.

i press it abit now and it goes (klak).

ive pretty much given up till the next time i change my speakers.

:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24036-sound-from-door/#findComment-514996
Share on other sites

Lol,

My dad said it's from speaker then I tried to bring it to a shop to fix it then it's gone after a while it came back again.

MrGTST -

It's not when I'm opening the door, it's when I'm driving around.

Angel - Wanna drive? :) When is the next skill swapping day?

streamer - You better get a new r33 like 97's :)

rb25 - lol , I never do such thing , If anyone like to show me how that would be lovely, or it's gonna be a mess job i.e. Take it off and at the end , have no idea how to put it back :D lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24036-sound-from-door/#findComment-515159
Share on other sites

oh man :D - theres a total of 6 screws holding my door skin in, theres nothing to these cars, thats the beauty of em..... Just get in there and have a go! :) 12 months ago I didnt know what a turbo looked like, now I'm installing/tuning electronic boost controllers, changing plugs and brakes etc.. Just have a go, you'll learn heaps about your own car.

/end bragging :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24036-sound-from-door/#findComment-515176
Share on other sites

erik: its not a difficult job

removing the door trim panels and tightening everything and retaping eveyrthing is the easiest thing ive ever learnt.

door is held by a few screws here and there. im not sure for 34 but i know for 33, its held by 3 screws @ the bottom, a screw in the cup thing attached to yr power window ctrls and your door latch sorround.

the rest is just pins that you can pry off...and pop back in when u push it abck in.

inside yr car, there is a waterproof skin/membrane kinda thing that protects yr trim and electrics frm getting any water durin rainy days or car washes and what happens is often, that is just rubbin against some electrical tape or cables to create a squeak..

so just open em up and see how it goes...shdn't be a problem...

sometimes, its also the the plastic pieces sorrounding the bottom of your dash console..

so if u take that out and tighten everythin and put it back together, shud be fine after that

i tried that too...pretty easy...removing the gear stick and unscrewing the screws behind yr ashtary shd get u started...

:)

laters

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24036-sound-from-door/#findComment-515227
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...