Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, i get a rattling sound -I think its coming from my exhaust- at about 40k's.. when im revving it.....

when its on neutral it doesnt make the sound, only when im driving... i recently got my cat converter replaced so its not that, my muffler replaced (i thought it was that but it wasnt) so now i have no idea what it is and my mechanic doesnt know either.. any ideas? thanks

You would think itd be something like that, theres not much else it could be if its comming from lower areas near the exhaust :S

You said you replaced the cat and wasnt that, did they check the piping from the extractors etc? maybe something isn't holding/stuck there.

But the word rattling in general is quite broad without hearing the noise for ourselves...is it a deep rattling noise? A tinny rattling?

I don't know much myself but if it doesn't happen when your idling but happens around 40km/h and continues it could just be that a section of piping is loose and not held in place properly, and when more pressure is passing through, the noise therefore occurs??

I could be waaaay off the mark. Goodluck hope you get it resolved soon!

mines doing the same aswell and its a r33 like all of you, i sware it comes from the gear box........

i think it is bearings somewhere that are worn down?

the sound and where its coming from sounds like a bearing, are all of you getting the same rattle from the gearbox thats really deep at 1500rpm and once it hits 2000rpm its more of a quiet tin rattling sound then stops after 2000rpm.

anyone confirm that they think its bearings now

yeah. sounds like a deep rattle O_O it sounds like its coming from the exhaust to me (but it aint cos i got it checked out) Anyone HOW MUCH DOES IT COST TO FIX MORE IMPORTANTLY? aNYONE KNOW? APPROX?

I'm getting the exact same problem in my R33 SI GTS-T..

I just finished installing a FMIC (which was a bitch, damn clamps flying off) and only just started noticing it now that I'm listening extra carefully..

I did some diagnostic and noticed that if I push my clutch in while it's rattling the rattling immediately stops. I was in second gear, stock ECU.

Edited by Alinys

if it stops when you put the clutch in it could be the trust bearing but id be dam soprised if you could hear that making noise while ur actually driving! when sitting there ideling you can normally pick it because it will sound like something mechanical rattling around and when you push the clutch in it stops.

but i doubt it would be a thrust bearing.

changing the clutch and all components of the clutch soon (after my 50thou rebuild is back together in a week :P ) so ill soon be able to see if it helped me or if its a problem that nothing to do with manual and auto differences. it might be the cat r the muffler because there relatively close to the gearbox to be mistaken because its just a crazy noise =\

i got the same problems, with the stock muffler it was loud on take off. it rattle hard.

thought it was a broken muffler so i got a a cannon it was still there wasnt that loud tho. i was thinking it was the cat or the resonant

seriously its going to be the clutch or gearbox. THE SOUND IS A DEAD BEARING!!!!!!! thrust bearing probity auto or manual i guess its got to be the same component, that is if were are getting that noise that we all say we have. someone take phone and record it. my car has no engine in it at the moment because of mods so i cant :)

thrust bearing probity auto or manual i guess its got to be the same component

I think you will find that only manuals have a thrust bearing as it only works when with the clutch, i know the noise im talking about is not the thrust bearing as that is making a different noise :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's not a transistor --- it's marked ZD1 which makes it a zener diode. As to what the breakdown voltage is, not enough there to divine.
    • Hi all, Long time since I've posted here. Looking for some advice on what I can remove to further identify the cause of my issues.  I can move the passenger seat forward and back but the knob used to adjust the seat angle is pretty much free spinning, there's very little resistance.  Removing the side cover I can see that the chain is intact but the shaft for the adjustment spins without the gear attached to it moving.  What's my next step for disassembly here? Is this a common fault? Just being a little cautious as I didn't want to start removing bolts for a spring to fly out or something equally as stupid.  Cheers
    • The incentives are mostly the same, yes. Ethanol is cheap compared to the cost of doing 98-100 RON with crude oil alone. 87 to 93-94 AKI all with E10. In 2020 Canada mandated E10 as a part of their "renewable fuel standard" and is supposedly going to go to E15 in 2030. In California where there are only 8 refineries with two threatening to shut down next year it's been over 20 years now of E10 and 91 AKI maximum because there's just not enough refinery capacity or crude oil supply relative to the demand for premium unleaded fuel. And CARB's low carbon fuel standard means functionally none of the diesel available at the pump is made from crude oil anymore. It's almost all entirely 20% biodiesel blended with 80% renewable diesel (hydrotreated vegetable oil) now. The number of gasoline vehicles that support E15 or higher ethanol concentrations is surprisingly low, I can't imagine it being wise to play tricks like this without flex fuel sensors in most of the fleet.
    • It's almost certainly the same as the one next to it. Have a fish around amongst these hits https://www.google.com/search?q=surface+mount+transistor+m33&sca_esv=9cb49794e0b2005d&source=hp&ei=2vJ5aNjTB7Kw0PEPldnS8QM&iflsig=AOw8s4IAAAAAaHoA6qkfmF6XcygtrZ4Vu9f92NXF_RFd&ved=0ahUKEwjYqIPP7MWOAxUyGDQIHZWsND4Q4dUDCA8&uact=5&oq=surface+mount+transistor+m33&gs_lp=Egdnd3Mtd2l6IhxzdXJmYWNlIG1vdW50IHRyYW5zaXN0b3IgbTMzMgUQIRigATIFECEYoAEyBRAhGKABMgUQIRigAUjKCFAAWABwAHgAkAEAmAHfAaAB3wGqAQMyLTG4AQPIAQD4AQL4AQGYAgGgAuYBmAMAkgcDMi0xoAfMBLIHAzItMbgH5gHCBwMyLTHIBwU&sclient=gws-wiz
    • South Australia, which is hardly as far behind as the rest pf Oz makes out, and who is also not a paragon of progressiveness (read that as over-legislation) in the area of vehicle standards, has this to say on the subject: Adjustable coil-over suspension Aftermarket adjustable coil-over suspension components are suspension units that incorporate an external thread on the main body and corresponding threaded spring saddle that allows the vehicle's suspension height to be varied. If fitting aftermarket or coil-over suspension components you must submit an Application to modify a light motor vehicle form and a report from a light vehicle engineering signatory (LVES).
×
×
  • Create New...