Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone,

Well it's been a while since i have posted on this forum but i thought i would share with you guys my recent aquisition. I have bought a complete HKS 3037 pro S Turbo/kit off of a fellow member along with a Z32 airflow meter. All i'm waiting on now is a bit more funds and some Nismo injectors/Fuel pump.

So in approx 2-3 weeks time i'm hoping to ring Martin Donnan and book in for a tune...Cant wait should be a bit of fun thats for sure, hoping for around the 250ish rwkw @ 16psi.

Cheers

Lee

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240494-hks-3037-here-i-come/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 143
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

great turbo to have purchased.

I have one on my JZX81 1JZ-GTE. awsome torque and great power throughout the rev range.

Mine makes around 290+rwkw on 16psi.

Then again my engine has a few more toys inside and out.

Will be keeping an eye on your posts to see what you get out of it with Martins skills behind it.

Goodluck

wanna fit Z32, gtr injectors and resistor pack for me then tune it somehow??

i got a e-manage blue

can u pm me a price please mr.donnon?? i got a R32 gtst

i would call but i dont have your number lol

Lee if that was you that called me today, the once again good choice >_<

We have Australias quickest and fastest Skylines on both drag strip and circuit, so you are in good hands :D

Hey Martin yeah that was me i was more than happy with my last tune you done with standard turbo, can't wait to get this new one on and tuned. Oh forgot to add i may need you to wire up my AFM also but everything else will be installed and ready to go.

Cheers mate

Lee

great turbo to have purchased.

I have one on my JZX81 1JZ-GTE. awsome torque and great power throughout the rev range.

Mine makes around 290+rwkw on 16psi.

Then again my engine has a few more toys inside and out.

Will be keeping an eye on your posts to see what you get out of it with Martins skills behind it.

Goodluck

Thanks mate i'm hoping for a bit extra torque and reckon this turbo fits the bill nicely with room to move later down the track when i go forged internals etc. I will definately keep everyone updated.

Lee

hey martin.

wat u charge for pfc tune?

+1 to adrians ??

i am thinking of getting a tune soon

just waiting on injectors, z32 afm and turbo

so i would like to know how much will it be for a full tune

thanks Martin!

his old partner (Uri) from the Fueltronics days is coming over to my place tomorrow to have a look at the ignition issues on my bike......hopefully it's an easy fix

Hope you get that problem sorted Pete. Summer is coming and Ive already had some good rides ... [just to spur you on a bit] :/

Thought i would give a quick update on progress as i received the turbo yesterday (cheers Nizmo_Freek). I have taken the car to get turbo/exhaust fitted and quickly run up under light load to make sure shes good to drive home quietly.

I will have clutch fitted up next week and order pump and injectors also. So all in all very happy with progress thus far. Expect a call real soon Martin.

Cheers

Lee

We tuned a 3037 on an SR20DET yesterday. Yes, the engine had pistons and rods to allow a bit more boost, but the results of the HKS turbocharger were extremely impressive....nearly 300rwkw on our Mainline, with more up its sleeve if need be :)

3037.jpg

Thats excellent results for a 2 litre thats for sure thanks for sharing that info Martin. 250-260 should be obtainable with the old rb25 then you would think.

Cheers mate

Lee

Ok turbo is on (cheers Pete top job mate) AFR's fine under mild loads 11.5-12 so fine to putt around for now. Turbo sounds sweet when starts spooling a bit louder than stock thats for sure. Quite a bit of difference in visual size of turbos (standard turbo looks physically alot smaller). First impressions under light loads are not too much difference at all, still very civilised.

Cheers Lee

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
    • Could be correct. Meter might be that far out. Compare against a known 5 ohm 1% resistor.
    • @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap.  (edit: I went out and did it right now, the line I had chosen did appear to have no vacuum on it, it used to go to the front of the intake, I've now completely blocked that one off at the bracket that holds several vacuum lines by the firewall.  I T'd into the vacuum line that goes from that bracket to the vacuum pump at the front of the car, but no change in the MAP readings).  Using the new vacuum line that has obvious vacuum on the hose, im still only getting readings between -6.0 and -5.2.  I'm wondering why the ECU was detecting -5.3 when nothing was connected to the MAP nipple and ECU MAP selected as the source. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
×
×
  • Create New...