Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 225
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Wow another big SAU roll up. Not to hot lathugh may be a little wet. As always it willl be an interesting day.

Thanks for having us again John :yucky:

Looking foward to seeing if my car does any better now.. I think she is healthy again.

Now I can go and wash my car tonight so it looks healthy too lol.

this will be a top day. everyone should get out there. cheap way to get your car on a dyno and see how it's going. :banana:

I will try and make it out too. the only question is do I bring the 34 (stock)? the S13 runs about 230odd rwkw on UAS dyno so maybe I should bring that? or I'm kind of curious to see what my FD RX7 is making now that the new pre-stage ported 13B is run in. hmmm tough choice. I'm guessing the stock 34 GTR makes about 190rwkw and the 7 maybe 200rwkw or so.

well if I don't make it out, have a great day without me guys. :D

this will be a top day. everyone should get out there. cheap way to get your car on a dyno and see how it's going. :banana:

I will try and make it out too. the only question is do I bring the 34 (stock)? the S13 runs about 230odd rwkw on UAS dyno so maybe I should bring that? or I'm kind of curious to see what my FD RX7 is making now that the new pre-stage ported 13B is run in. hmmm tough choice. I'm guessing the stock 34 GTR makes about 190rwkw and the 7 maybe 200rwkw or so.

well if I don't make it out, have a great day without me guys. :D

if you can't decide i'll take the RX7 for you lol, they are a beautiful machine, completely different to the skylines but in its own right they are excellent. A friend of mine is actually looking at a 1991 series 5 turbo on sunday, what should he be looking for?

I'm washing my car anyway because a few days ago while going throgh the m2 tunnel those bloody stupid exhaust fans splatterd oil on my car, couldnt wash it because i was going to work, then i finish work at midnight, wake up for work next morning, finish work midnight again, so gota wash it now....

and if its 20-25degrees tomorrow the temps will be ok for the dyno results, cooler air = denser air, denser air = more air, more air = more power lol

if you can't decide i'll take the RX7 for you lol, they are a beautiful machine, completely different to the skylines but in its own right they are excellent. A friend of mine is actually looking at a 1991 series 5 turbo on sunday, what should he be looking for?

I'm washing my car anyway because a few days ago while going throgh the m2 tunnel those bloody stupid exhaust fans splatterd oil on my car, couldnt wash it because i was going to work, then i finish work at midnight, wake up for work next morning, finish work midnight again, so gota wash it now....

and if its 20-25degrees tomorrow the temps will be ok for the dyno results, cooler air = denser air, denser air = more air, more air = more power lol

if he's buying an old RX7 my advice would be pay as little as possible and save for a rebuild! mine is a 2001 RZ and even it was due for a new engine after a wee 30,000kms! rotor motors are not built to last. :banana:

can i still come with a broken three gear you only need fourth gear for a dyno run

If we get you rocking up scobles, you have easy takings of the RB30 trophy. Was your run on the Envy dyno with gas? Impressive figure. :banana:

Cyas tomorrow.

im out :) i found the limits of a standard rb30 bottom end engine let go at 592hp not bad for a stock engine time to visit abbcos ha ha or i mite build one for once ;) just think what we can make with a built engine 600hp+

If we get you rocking up scobles, you have easy takings of the RB30 trophy. Was your run on the Envy dyno with gas? Impressive figure. :O

Cyas tomorrow.

nah the run on envys dyno was with no gas just 20 psi should have left it there but where do you stop



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...