Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys i'm new to here ;) i got an r33T series 1, i got an issue with the sound system. everything works fine and then all of a sudden there is power to the head unit, amps(everything is run off amps) but no vocals (sound) coming out. since there is power to everyhthing it can't be a fuse. i was wondering if u guys have any ideas wat it could be. i mean i can put cd's in etc, play with the volume, arial goes up automatically if the head unit is on etc

The only thing of additional info i can give is that i took the subs out of the boot and my bro never put tape around the ends of the sub cables.

btw i spend 1hr trying to search the topic on here, i don't think its been covered, sorry if it has

Edited by P1OTR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240602-no-sound/
Share on other sites

amps could be over heating. If you go from having sound to no sound, id say that is a good chance. Or might not be grounded.

If you think it might be overheating, try it, play ur system until it does it, turn it off for 15 - 20min and than try again. If that is the problem than it is just poor air ventilation.

Where are the amps installed? boot or underneath the seat?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240602-no-sound/#findComment-4202506
Share on other sites

please explain..."all of a sudden there is power to the headunit"?

FIGJAM : If the amps are over heating that would probly be a tell that there is to low a load placed on them by improperly wired subs.

When they cut out check the status indication lights that should be on the amp somewhere,if indeed the amp(s) are going into protection start to eliminate all the possible causes of it.

turn the system off and unplug the RCA leads (be very carful as not to let them touch any metal while they are unpluged.

turn the system back on,if nothing goes into protect then you know its a problem with the RCA leads or the head unit.

if that doesnt solve the problem,turn the system off again,start disconnecting speakers from the amp(s) and turn the system back on after you have removed one speaker at a time. continue that process until you hopfully find the fault.once you have tracked it down to which speaker line in the problem ether find the break or short and fix it or remove and run new cable.

also check where the amp(s) are grounded,make sure the metal is clean of paint and any other contaminates,make sure the wire is firmly griped by the eyelet terminals.check the possitive leads that connect to the battery too and make sure they are securly fitted.

if none of that find the fault remove the RCA leads and speaker wires from the amp and then turn the system back on again. if the amp(s) still goes into protect them you have your self a faulty amp(s)

theres a quick run down of how to find and eliminate faults in a system but without knowing exactly whats doing what in your system i cant be more specific so can you please run through whats running off of what and how many amps there are etc etc.

Jack

Edited by Jack88
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240602-no-sound/#findComment-4202945
Share on other sites

sorry guys, my english is crap lol the sound system doesn't produce any sound (vocals, bass) NOTHING. Head unit and amps turn on, u can play with the head unit like normal but it doesn't change anything, still no sound! everything worked normally then one day, something stuffed up and there is no sound since then.

What happened my bro took the subs out and didn't tape the ends of the cable. they touched something metal (i'm guessing) shorted and then stopped working! he just told me the main fuse blew (to the amps) so he changed it to cover up so i wouldn't crack it :rofl:

so yer i hope that is more clear, so basically right now there is power in the head unit and amps and NO SOUND in the speakers WAT SO EVER. i really doubt its an over heating issue.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240602-no-sound/#findComment-4204207
Share on other sites

can you tell me what gear (IE brands ) are in the car - also models of the amplifiers.

if there is a single 4 ch one in there running everyting then there is a good chance it was killed wihen the subs were pulled.

that said if there is a fuse on the battery - change it. tey can look ok and be blown.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240602-no-sound/#findComment-4204218
Share on other sites

normally if you short out the speaker wires on a head unit the headunit will cut sound to all of the speakers to protect its self,its possible something like that is happening to you.when this happends all light/displays stay on as per normal.

run through the methods i described earlier and answer chris's question and we should be able to get you sorted.

chris is also 100% on the fuse, especially if its an AGU style fuse you are using,quiet often the contact between the end cap and link inside the glass cylinder breaks and wont pass any decent amount of current to do anything with.i have seen it happen many many times.

where abouts are you located mate?

Jack

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240602-no-sound/#findComment-4204304
Share on other sites

one thing that i can't understand is why the speakers aren't working? cause they are running to different amps that the subs. i'm leaning to the head unit amp stuffed up?

I forgot to mention i got a capacitor too! but thats reading fine.

There are no actual internal fuses in the amps, are there? cause i'm just gonna go and change all the external fuses.

Edited by P1OTR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240602-no-sound/#findComment-4204625
Share on other sites

ok done everything, changed all the fuses, disconnected the speakers, rca cables and done the checks (like above)etc.

None of the amps are in protection mode in the first place and don't go into it at all.

i even disconnected the battery so the head unit resets itself and still back to square one. nothing

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240602-no-sound/#findComment-4204757
Share on other sites

I know this sounds stupid but check your settings on the deck? i had an alpine 9887 and there was a setting on it to turn on and off it's internal amplifier. There could be a setting on the deck thats been fiddled with and disabled your rca outputs? Sometimes the simple stuff like this is the cause good luck.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240602-no-sound/#findComment-4206018
Share on other sites

I know this sounds stupid but check your settings on the deck? i had an alpine 9887 and there was a setting on it to turn on and off it's internal amplifier. There could be a setting on the deck thats been fiddled with and disabled your rca outputs? Sometimes the simple stuff like this is the cause good luck.

by resetting the headunit (disconnecting the battery) shouldn't it do it automatically?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240602-no-sound/#findComment-4206710
Share on other sites

Check if the RCA's are even connected properly..

Grounding.

Look at your amp, some amps have a "fault" light. When running good, the green one is lit. When screwed Red.

Take it to an Audio / Visual store man, you dont want to fry all your electricals over something as small as a sound system.

MRXTCZ

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240602-no-sound/#findComment-4207054
Share on other sites

yes some amps have internal fuses,very few tho.one last thing to try to test the amps,if you have an MP3 player and a 3.5mm head phone jack to 2 RCA's you can plug it into your amp and test with that,make sure the gains are down all the way first!

if you get sound then that would indicate a problem with ether the RCA's or head unit.if you dont then its the amps that are at fault.

out of all the things i have listed to do that will generally find the problem in 99% of systems so if they dont help you identify what the problem is then there isnt really much for i can do with out personally seeing the system or without knowing more information about it.

Jack

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240602-no-sound/#findComment-4208109
Share on other sites

yes some amps have internal fuses,very few tho.one last thing to try to test the amps,if you have an MP3 player and a 3.5mm head phone jack to 2 RCA's you can plug it into your amp and test with that,make sure the gains are down all the way first!

if you get sound then that would indicate a problem with ether the RCA's or head unit.if you dont then its the amps that are at fault.

out of all the things i have listed to do that will generally find the problem in 99% of systems so if they dont help you identify what the problem is then there isnt really much for i can do with out personally seeing the system or without knowing more information about it.

Jack

thanks anyway, i reckon i'm gonna hook up the amps to my mates car and see

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240602-no-sound/#findComment-4209345
Share on other sites

if it is indeed the fuse on the RCA lines then you dont have much chance of getting it fixed over the weekend,the fuse itself is very small and is not a user repairable part.the head unit will need to be sent back to the manifacturer to be repaired/replaced which will take a few weeks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240602-no-sound/#findComment-4216524
Share on other sites

ok now i'm completely lost, i wanted to hook up my mates system to my head unit (his amp via rca cables into my car)

I pulled it apart to realise that only my subs are hooked up via rca cables when the other amp (running speakers) isn't. the speakers worked before the this whole issue.

any idea wats up with that???? like i heard about the high/ low frequency bs but why would someone not hook up the rca cables to???

:ninja: so confused now it not even funny, any help will be grate

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240602-no-sound/#findComment-4232394
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...