Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys. I'm in the uk and have bought a speedo converter (kmh-mph) for my cefiro but cant find a wiring diagram. I know you don't use them but would anyone have any idea where I could find a wiring diagram to install the converter?

Not had any luck finding a wiring diagram. If this is just for MOT purposes it might be easier to just change the dials? Or you could go down the really pikey route and put sticky labels over them

Edit: Or just stick a GPS SatNav or camera detector in there and read the speed off that, which is what I have to do when I travel to Eire since I don't have KMs on the clock.

Edited by Lum
After closer inspection it looks like a mechanical speedo like the r32.. ? ? ?

Interesting, is yours a pre-facelift or post-facelift model (post-facelift has an L at the start of the VIN code)

Do they even make mechanical speedo converters?

Also, out of interest whereabouts in the UK are you? I've never actually seen a Cefiro on the road anywhere.

Edited by Lum

I'm pretty sure all cefiros are mechanical speedo. Some models (i think ones delivered to malaysia maybe) have both KMPH and MPH written on the dials.

Failing that, you should be able to take it to some instrument calibration shop and they could change the internal gearing inside the cluster so that the numbers will correspond to the desired speed.

Interesting, is yours a pre-facelift or post-facelift model (post-facelift has an L at the start of the VIN code)

Do they even make mechanical speedo converters?

Also, out of interest whereabouts in the UK are you? I've never actually seen a Cefiro on the road anywhere.

My chassis number starts LA, R32 skylines take a mechanical speedo as far as I know. I'm from dorset, there are a couple of cefiro's over here you'll find most if you search on driftworks.com forum page.

....any pictures of yours?

I'm pretty sure all cefiros are mechanical speedo. Some models (i think ones delivered to malaysia maybe) have both KMPH and MPH written on the dials.

Failing that, you should be able to take it to some instrument calibration shop and they could change the internal gearing inside the cluster so that the numbers will correspond to the desired speed.

I'll try the path of a r32 mechanical one then!! Seems the best bet so far.

Cheers m8

My chassis number starts LA, R32 skylines take a mechanical speedo as far as I know. I'm from dorset, there are a couple of cefiro's over here you'll find most if you search on driftworks.com forum page.

....any pictures of yours?

lol, Driftworks dont like me because I bought an AWD Cefiro with the intent of daily driving it.

Mine is still in Japan at the moment, only paid for it this morning.

cefiro__10.jpg

cefiro__2.jpg

cefiro__3.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...