Jump to content
SAU Community

R&r Cut....i Think


Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I have been experiencing power cut when under load in gears 3-5 low revs.....starts to boost then cuts out.....new coils fixed my miss but still got cut.

I have a SAFC, shouldnt this fix any R&R cut???

can a SAFC reset itself?

or will its reset if my car battery goes flat or disconnected or alarm is immobilised???

Can any let me know how to check to see it SAFC has returned to factory settings.

Thanks!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

does it miss at all or just go slower? could just be coils

safc will only help r&r i its set up to do so. rich and retard is the ecus way of protecting the engine from what it deems excessive airflow, and an safc works by bending the airflow meter signal.

If you tuned it to be a bit leaner it would be bending the afm voltage away from the r&r limit, but potentially leaning out the engine in the midrange is a bad idea.

could even be beneficial to remove the safc if you still have stock turbo

Link to comment
Share on other sites

def not coils as just replaced them....not missing.....it completely cuts out...

stock turbo....but safc should help rather then hinder tho....more boost and power then stock, therefore need to tune ratios to match.....

thoughts???

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah thats the road i thought i had to go down....

but just got it tuned 2 months ago and was fine....then all of a sudden it started missing and cutting out.....replaced coils and fixed the miss....

thought safc would hold its tune for more then 2 months....

what can cause a safc to reset?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What has probably happened is that you had the SAFC tuned such that it was lowering the afm voltage at 4000rpm 'just enough' to get under the 'airflow cut' threshold....(IMO the airflow cut doesn't act until engine rpm reaches 4000rpm. If air flow voltage exceeds the 'airflow cut' threshold at 4000 rpm, ignition is cut straight away...the threshold increase with engine rpm up to about 5500rpm).

The afm is temperature compensated but only inherently so it is not perfectly independant of temp. You would have had the SAFC tuned to get the afm voltage under the 'airflow cut' threshold a couple of months ago when the weather was cooler. Now that the weather is warmer, air density and humidity are different, it may be that you are hitting the 'airflow cut threshold' again. You may have been only missing the airflow cut threshold by a few mV before.

Plus the overall efficiency of your engine will change with temp as well...

BTW this is not R&R. IMO R&R is triggered by excessive knock...it doesn't cause engine to cut completely..

Anyway I would say get your SAFC retuned to suit warmer weather or lower your boost just a touch...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Except warmer weather reduces the air flow/density for a given boost.

Yep that is true...I was referring more to the accuracy of the afm with respect to temperature...ie it's output is x volts per unit mass of air flowing through it...in theory the afm is temperature compensated because it relies on transfer of heat put into the air by the heater element to the receiving element. It could be that as the air temp into the afm increases, it over-estimates the velocity of the air....not by much mind you, and probably not enough to make any real difference to the engine tune overall, but enough to trigger air flow cut if you are already so close it...Also the electronics of the afm are analogue right up to the ECU and would also be effected by temperature...once again not by much but maybe just enough to trigger air flow cut...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks for your help guys....

i havent had this before....i had a different 33, exact same car...making exact same power...same mods except for the safc.....would this problem be because the safc tune is making the car get close to the airflow cut which in contrast to no safc the airflows are not altered and not close to airflow cut?

or am just way off???

also what gains are made from safc? just fuel economy or power gains? and if so to what extent.....because i dont pay for fuel so not an issue....and if i have to wind down boost then the marginal loss of untuned car.

also what if i get the tuner to do a very emissions friendly tune, would it improve my situation....as in reduced airflow.

cheers guys....new to this so appreciate your help!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

safc was tuned 2 months ago...

is there anyway to fix the problem? or is it just something i need to put up with....drop boost...

what happens if i want a bigger turbo and make more power? say a hiflow for example....what would i have to do to resolve issue.

ultimately i would like to fix the problem....

thanks!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

safc was tuned 2 months ago...

is there anyway to fix the problem? or is it just something i need to put up with....drop boost...

what happens if i want a bigger turbo and make more power? say a hiflow for example....what would i have to do to resolve issue.

ultimately i would like to fix the problem....

thanks!!

You can do a few things...

1. Drop the boost...My guess is you would not need to drop it that much...This is the safest option and you may not lose that much power...

2. Adjust your afm voltage correction (SAFC) to get underneath the airflow cut. Start at 4000rpm and work up from there...BUT do not do this unless you are checking either AFRs or EGTs at the same time. I would advise you to get a tuner to do this...

3. Change the ECU...Unfortunately you have hit the brick wall in the standard ECU...there is not much you can do...Nissan have put these limitations in the ECU to keep their warranty claims department quiet...All car manufacturers do this..

At this point in time I am going to say start searching the forum because from now on for every answer we give you, you will have two more questions...you will find the answers and learn a lot at the same time..

best of luck...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi mate, I have never had an issue with the odometer in mine (450,000+ klm now) and can't remember another post about it. Still, your description of the likely cause sounds spot on, so an electrics repair is probably the next stop.
    • Cheers. I more want it quieter with the varex open. I only have the varex closed when i start up and roll out the driveway to keep everyone happy on days i take the car to work at 5 AM or come home late. So just a mod muffler will do tge trick? Something like that would require a retune hey?
    • I was going to say generally speaking if it's like 80k+ miles since the valve cover has been replaced you don't even attempt to just replace the gasket. The valve cover itself will likely be warped and it will continue to leak after replacement, just not as severely. The valve cover PCV diaphragm can also tear and create a major vacuum leak. Welcome to BMW life. My friend's 2006 330i was t-boned and totaled out so he also just got a 335i so I can add to this thread now.
    • Hi all, For my '98 260rs... The odometer LCD occasionally turns blank or gives me only the bottom half or top half of the numbers. It's intermittent, which leaves me to believe it's a dead solder or loose wire somewhere. The odometer itself works. When the screen comes back, kms have been added to the trip and overall meters. A couple questions: Is this a known issue with the Stagea? I didn't see it pop up in my quick search, but that could be my searching skills. How accessible is the LCD screen in the cluster? I'm hoping it's a remove and replace type situation versus cracking open the whole housing. I'm hoping you all can narrow some of my initial troubleshooting. Any experience or opinions would be helpful.  
    • Yeah. Seeing the finish line must be quite the motivation. Good on you for sticking with it. Understood about the model choice. Also, totally get the challenge with sourcing parts. Based on your handle, I'm just a few hours south of you. All the little things I've bought so far come with $30 shipping, even if it's just stickers for the boot!
×
×
  • Create New...