Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, I've got an S13 with an RB25 engine in it, and I'm remapping it myself.

I've got some mild knocking numbers close to the redline (it's got a power-fc pro, so ignition cut on revlimiter), and I'd like to know if there is any difference between the front and back knock sensor...

And for the record, what a/f ratio should I be aiming for at what load level ?

William

the knock sensor signal in the powerfc is presented as a single value, that is, you can't see both

the only way to log both would be to have a multimeter on both signal wires

you sure about that ?

Have you played with the raw logging data that you can save out of the datalogit software and then import it into excel?

It has 2 knock values. they are different values on my engine, the rear of the engine is nosier then the front on mine. which showed up on the stock power fc datalogit knock sensors & on my Gizzmo KMON.

the knock sensor signal in the powerfc is presented as a single value, that is, you can't see both

the only way to log both would be to have a multimeter on both signal wires

Your such a help mate.. lol

Sorry. Start logging with datalogit and when you wish to see what you have run, save the log file or when you disconnect it will ask if you wish to save, open the log file with notepad press controll A. edit copy.

Open microsloth excel and paste into there. Drag down the sticky cells to the cell information and the first knock sensor is there, scroll across to see the second knock sensor.

I delete all the crap i dont need and have a excel file with all the usefull information i need.

one tip, Knock with a power fc.. = BBAAAA BUMMMMMMM totally useless information with anything more then 200 to 240rwkw and above.

you sure about that ?

Have you played with the raw logging data that you can save out of the datalogit software and then import it into excel?

It has 2 knock values. they are different values on my engine, the rear of the engine is nosier then the front on mine. which showed up on the stock power fc datalogit knock sensors & on my Gizzmo KMON.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I should. But it already uses too much fuel for a daily. You might note my recco for engine chnages are almost exclusively to people who have it as a weekender/summer car. I don't even have room to keep the spares for this one, let alone another car.
    • If I had "perfect R33 GTR" kinda money I would have bought one of the crazy expensive low mileage HJA cars, but I am sadly not that wealthy. I already picked this car out of various Skylines for sale locally, most of which were worse in some way. Only a few cars were actually better but also more expensive. In terms of buying a motor locally, I at least have the option to inspect it myself and juding the seller as a person, and used or freshly rebuilt engines that some people sell are actually ok price-wise. I knew the car was going to require work, but shit piled up real fast and I haven't even driven 1000km yet as the turbo started oiling like a bitch within a few weeks after I got the car.   I assume it wasn't actually me who cracked it, though there is no way to know when that crack formed and if the previous owner even knew it was there. Buying another 05U Block can be a gamble, yeah, but the cheapest PRP cast block is like twice or more money-wise, and billet is 3 or 3 times as much. For now I am most likely just keeping the current engine, as a rebuild or engine swap isn't happening right now. But I am seriously considering buying a second engine and selling mine in return. Might be a sweet deal at the end.
    • Hi all. I need some help buying the correct size banjo bolts for my 2860 turbos. Because whoever installed them tore up the original part, I ordered new ones of this kind, because I just figured these were the most leak-resistant option as I already had trouble with a shitty braided line. I need to know the thread size of the smaller left hole, that is the turbo oil feed connection. I found out so far that the turbo oil inlet apparently has a 7/16"-24 thread, but I cannot find any listing or description of the thread size on this line. I do not have the original bolts. I tried using the bolts that were in the turbos (the ones that were mounted with the shitty braided line) but they sit very loosely so they can't be the right thread. Means either these bolts are the wrong ones (how do they fit the turbo then? no clue) or the wraparound-lines have a different thread than the turbo oil feed itself. Help is appreciated, asking Nissan directly is obviously not going to work.
    • EDIT: PSA to whoever stumbles upon this thread. It is in fact a crack in the block that caused this concern. Just letting you know. In my case, a few cm long hairline crack going horizontally above the turbo oil feed. Classic RB shit I guess
×
×
  • Create New...