Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi, building up an rb30 in my back shed, and the crankshaft has been worn about ten thou by both oil seals, just wondering if people have used a sleeve or just put it back as is and if so did it leak, idealy i would like to put a sleeve on but this would involve machining the crank, i'm trying to keep it cheap as possible, as i've blown enough cash on recent cars as it is. also one of the cylinders has a small score in it, but below what seems to be the travel of the piston, (which i did of course removing the piston, damn!), would i need to get the block bored now or will it be ok?

cheers for any help,

troy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241971-crank-oil-seal-diameter-damage/
Share on other sites

also does anyone have the stock crank diameter tolerances, aswell as the cylinder bore diameter tolerances, just so i can check the block and crank before i put it back together. how much power can the stock rods handle, sorry i know its been covered but i can't find it.

600hp, if the crank is badly scored, then you can fit a "speedy sleeve" without the need for any machining

ok, so the speedy sleeves have been used sucessfully by people building these engines? so i take it upgrading the rods to forgies wouldn't be worth doin for 350 kw atw car, just get the stockos treated

I would definately upgrade the rods for 350rwkw, thats about the safe limit of the stockers. By the time you fit ARP rod bolts, and get them sidepolished and shotpeened, big and little ends resized there isnt much difference in the cost.

the cost difference between a 25 and 26 head

is around 600?

but 26 head goes straight on

25 head u need to weld/mod/tap

26 also has a forward facing plenum

26 has solid lifters

what car is it going in?

the cost difference between a 25 and 26 head

is around 600?

but 26 head goes straight on

25 head u need to weld/mod/tap

26 also has a forward facing plenum

26 has solid lifters

what car is it going in?

the engine will be goin in my r33gtst, but i need the car to be running to get to work, so i'll have to purchase a head for the rb30, got qouted 350 for a 25det and 1200 for a 26, i know that the 25det has problems with the valve float under high power, but will chucking a set of 26 valve springs in it fix the problem? just wondering what peoples opions are about the two heads side by side, waying up the cost difference. for those that have welded the 25det head, what was the preferred method, the block is cast iron so just wondering what people have used, eg mig with cast iron wire etc. i'm trying to do as much as i can, with no engine building experience, but i'm a fitter and turner so i'm able to drill, tap, modify etc. i wouldn't have even tryed without these threads.

To mod the rb25 head, i drill and tap the oil gallery and fit a m8 grubscrew in there, then get the head welded where the water gallery is close to the edge of the head gasket, i had a head welded and surface ground for $100.

ok, well that sounds pretty basic, 100bucks aint to bad either, looks like i'll probably be goin the 25 with 26 valve springs, i noticed that alot of people are choosing the 25de (na) heads over the 25 det heads, whats the reason 4 this, please excuse my ignorance but couldn't find anything

i know its a long shot but does anyone have the approximate dimensions of the jun crank collar, gunna make one, can't see how they can jusify the 200 odd bucks they sell them for. any help would be greatly appreciated just after some rough sizes.

Edited by roy33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Initially I thought having a pair of Recaro seats would be a big bonus, it turns out these do get a little uncomfortable on long journeys (my fault, not the seat). I had a look through the GSM Performance website at reclining seats and booked an appointment to visit their show room. I got the Recaro Sportster CS for the R34 from here, was very happy with the service received so of course a re-visit was in order. Unfortunately the two Corbeau seats I had chosen aren't on display but they had 4 other options available. Two seats dug into my back, one dug into my legs and the other was perfect. I also found out that Recaro seats use a larger bolt pattern so some adaption was required. Luckily GSM offer some universal adaptors that should solve this problem. I searched the interwebs for price comparisons and Corbeau themselves were the cheapest at £300 cheaper (for the pair). I asked GSM if they could price match, unfortunately they couldn't. I later received an email saying Corbeau would honour them the same discount, but the purchase was already made. I did however order the brackets from GSM, both arrived on the same day. I started with the passenger side seat, knowing this was going to be a little trial and error. There are 3 mounting holes at the front and 2 at the rear on these JURAN Racing seat rails.  With the adaptor brackets mounted, the allen cap bolts started to push into the seat, NOT GOOD!  The rear mounting holes lined up but there were issues at the front. The holes were 1/2 hole out, so the brackets got a tickle with the drill to modify the holes. The supplied bolts weren't going to be long enough and a spacer was needed to stop the adaptor bars from bending. A local fasteners company supplied be with some nylon spacers and longer bolts (M8x30, although these will be replaced with 35mm long shortly) A before and after I pre-drilled the front bracket before making a start on the driver's seat to save some time. And in no time at all that was in the car too. The all black seats have transformed the interior and these are MUCH more comfortable. The only downside with the new Corbeau seats is I sit a little higher, but I'll happily accept that over discomfort. The Youtube video can be found here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wPyttKPktXA
    • All 3 I guess. The car came with the JASI Aero 4 door Type R Full Kit unpainted so this was one thing at the top of my list to complete then I noticed there were body panels parts for this kit so i picked them up along with some black mesh to fill in the front bumper and front side air vents. car is at a paint and body shop atm completing this work. Next I will be addressing the internal bells and whistles, great summer project I can do with the kids.  full interior removal - ,boys car sound deadening - pads and spray ,boys stereo, sound, lighting - Big 3, GTT or bigger alternator ,kids head lining - dye black add star lighting mod ,daughter. That's it for the next 5-6 months. I have some motor maintenance  work i have to plan out. oil filter relocation, gaskets, mounts. beyond that, mind is starting to turn over if i can use a DET intake plenum, block off turbo ports & pipe in a air intake.      
    • roller coaster of a ride. Alarm system was removed & main harness was repaired where possible. still no fix just random successful starts. moved on to the replacing the ignition switch and relay. well all this troubleshooting & repair has been going on, the car is at a paint and body shop being pushed around. Ive been going down there on odd days after work to get it sorted.     
    • 5th November if you want to come out for a spin wakfield
×
×
  • Create New...