Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi, building up an rb30 in my back shed, and the crankshaft has been worn about ten thou by both oil seals, just wondering if people have used a sleeve or just put it back as is and if so did it leak, idealy i would like to put a sleeve on but this would involve machining the crank, i'm trying to keep it cheap as possible, as i've blown enough cash on recent cars as it is. also one of the cylinders has a small score in it, but below what seems to be the travel of the piston, (which i did of course removing the piston, damn!), would i need to get the block bored now or will it be ok?

cheers for any help,

troy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/241971-crank-oil-seal-diameter-damage/
Share on other sites

also does anyone have the stock crank diameter tolerances, aswell as the cylinder bore diameter tolerances, just so i can check the block and crank before i put it back together. how much power can the stock rods handle, sorry i know its been covered but i can't find it.

600hp, if the crank is badly scored, then you can fit a "speedy sleeve" without the need for any machining

ok, so the speedy sleeves have been used sucessfully by people building these engines? so i take it upgrading the rods to forgies wouldn't be worth doin for 350 kw atw car, just get the stockos treated

I would definately upgrade the rods for 350rwkw, thats about the safe limit of the stockers. By the time you fit ARP rod bolts, and get them sidepolished and shotpeened, big and little ends resized there isnt much difference in the cost.

the cost difference between a 25 and 26 head

is around 600?

but 26 head goes straight on

25 head u need to weld/mod/tap

26 also has a forward facing plenum

26 has solid lifters

what car is it going in?

the cost difference between a 25 and 26 head

is around 600?

but 26 head goes straight on

25 head u need to weld/mod/tap

26 also has a forward facing plenum

26 has solid lifters

what car is it going in?

the engine will be goin in my r33gtst, but i need the car to be running to get to work, so i'll have to purchase a head for the rb30, got qouted 350 for a 25det and 1200 for a 26, i know that the 25det has problems with the valve float under high power, but will chucking a set of 26 valve springs in it fix the problem? just wondering what peoples opions are about the two heads side by side, waying up the cost difference. for those that have welded the 25det head, what was the preferred method, the block is cast iron so just wondering what people have used, eg mig with cast iron wire etc. i'm trying to do as much as i can, with no engine building experience, but i'm a fitter and turner so i'm able to drill, tap, modify etc. i wouldn't have even tryed without these threads.

To mod the rb25 head, i drill and tap the oil gallery and fit a m8 grubscrew in there, then get the head welded where the water gallery is close to the edge of the head gasket, i had a head welded and surface ground for $100.

ok, well that sounds pretty basic, 100bucks aint to bad either, looks like i'll probably be goin the 25 with 26 valve springs, i noticed that alot of people are choosing the 25de (na) heads over the 25 det heads, whats the reason 4 this, please excuse my ignorance but couldn't find anything

i know its a long shot but does anyone have the approximate dimensions of the jun crank collar, gunna make one, can't see how they can jusify the 200 odd bucks they sell them for. any help would be greatly appreciated just after some rough sizes.

Edited by roy33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...