Jump to content
SAU Community

20/12/08 Willowbank Pre-test N Tune Session - 3 Hours


Recommended Posts

Any who wish to stay on for TNT after we finish are welcome to at no extra expense.

The time issue is this;

We originally hired a 3hr window due to the large interest showed at the enquiry stage to members about numbers.

QR set a minimum number of vehicles at 30 for a 2hr slot at a preset track hire rate, addition cost for extra hour/s above initial booking.

We did the math-carried the 5- and worked out an extra 10 cars would cover the next hr and not take time out of peoples runs on the strip from 30 into the 2hrs which was roughly 4 runs each.

When the paid numbers remained so far below the required target we nearly had to cancel the event.

It is with the true kindness that QR have displayed by allowing us to run without 30 cars in the first place that has enabled the Event to continue, however, we were unable to do an extra hour at the rates we have charged.

So, this comes as a request from me to 'you all' to allow us a 'bit of grace' with the changes we have had to make to get the event off the table & you into your cars to post some times, rather than cancel it altogether.

I hope this answers a few questions to any who are interested

Todd- Qld Events

  • Replies 219
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

$48 from 2pm to 4pm... I thought it was originally 1pm to 4pm??

this price still does not include Test'N'Tune afterwards right? Is there a discount if we stay for Test'N'Tune?

Willowbank set the price, not us.

40 cars - 3 hours. Everyone wanted drags, we gave them drags. Comes time to pay and no one is keen. Anything less then 40 cars is 2 hours (set by willowbank) just like the pricing

cmon ppl pay up and have a crack at the strip, i have paid yet i am unable to go. either way i have paid so if someone wants my spot as a chrissy present and i dont even know you then pm me and ill give you my spot for free. ill then let toddls know of who is taking my place. SOMEONE GO AND SUPPORT THIS DAMN EVENT. FOR FU#KS sake. I dont want QR to not let us have this event again due to lack of support. we are lucky to be going ahead with this at all!!!!

Sad times ehh...........

$48 from 2pm to 4pm... I thought it was originally 1pm to 4pm??

this price still does not include Test'N'Tune afterwards right? Is there a discount if we stay for Test'N'Tune?

A previous pre-Test N tune I attended we were allowed to continue at no extra cost, just had to get reissued with a new racing number :P

Who knows, might lucky again.

Paid List so far

1) Bunta - PAID

2) Wagamama - PAID

3) toddlls - PAID

4) Pear - PAID

5) DAS KAMU - PAID

6) and3_3 - PAID

7) Jayson

8) Rhinorebel - PAID

9) Strik3r - Paid

10) Lazy-Bastard - PAID

11) Col-GTSX PAID

12) spilmer - PAID

13) Hell Fire - PAID

14) jase-r34 PAID

15) impact_blue - PAID

16) wrxkilla - PAID

17) coaster - awaiting conf

18) jason - PAID

19) POQ123 PAID

20) HR31_RB20DET - awaiting conf.

21) Damien Morris - PAID

22) l0WRB - PAID

23) l0WRB - PAID

24) NA_R33 - awaiting conf.

25)

26)

27)

28)

29)

30)

CONFIRMED PAID!

1) Rhinorebel

2) Col

3) POQ123

4) Jason-DAS KAMU

5) jase-r34

6) Wagamama

7) Pear

8) Bunta

9) impact_blue

10) Toddlls

11) Spilmer

12) Lazy-Bastard

13) Hell Fire

14) wrxkilla

15) and3_3

16) reference: tuxworth

17) Jason

18) reference: Damien Morris

19) reference: l0WRB

20) reference: l0WRB

Hey Guys, question on the spectators??

Is there a cost for extra spectators???

Like if I were to rock up with 5 people for example?

i have a feeling there is an extra cost , but im sure if we stop and organise it just before we get there we can shuffle our mates off to other cars with just a driver and get us all in for free

The list:

;)

1) Bunta - PAID

2) Wagamama - PAID

3) toddlls - PAID

4) Pear - PAID

5) DAS KAMU - PAID

6) and3_3 - PAID

7) Jayson

8) Rhinorebel - PAID

9) Strik3r - Paid

10) Lazy-Bastard - PAID

11) Col-GTSX PAID

12) spilmer - PAID

13) Hell Fire - PAID

14) jase-r34 PAID

15) impact_blue - PAID

16) wrxkilla - PAID

17) coaster - awaiting conf

18) jason - PAID

19) POQ123 PAID

20) HR31_RB20DET - awaiting conf.

21) Damien Morris - PAID

22) l0WRB - PAID

23) l0WRB - PAID

24) NA_R33 - awaiting conf.

25) si - awaiting conf.

26) Reggi34dr - awaitng conf.

27)

28)

29)

30)

CONFIRMED PAID!

1) Rhinorebel

2) Col

3) POQ123

4) Jason-DAS KAMU

5) jase-r34

6) Wagamama

7) Pear

8) Bunta

9) impact_blue

10) Toddlls

11) Spilmer

12) Lazy-Bastard

13) Hell Fire

14) wrxkilla

15) and3_3

16) reference: tuxworth

17) Jason

18) reference: Damien Morris

19) reference: l0WRB

20) reference: l0WRB

Hey Guys, question on the spectators??

Is there a cost for extra spectators???

Like if I were to rock up with 5 people for example?

Adults $19, Students with ID $17, Kids under 13 FREE

sweet.Unfortunatley i can only go as a spectator, my fuel pump is dieing and i dont trust it , i havent got the time to change it.Anyone from the sunshine coast wanting to head to this toogether , jump on the sunny coast thread and we will work something out.

should be good fun me and a mate are both coming from bundy lol both running similar crappy kkr setups but should still go alrite i guess lol

Edited by l0WRB

.40C pots? im so there. I wana see how your link goes after a few flogins 10wrb. I have since found the link distributor and wouldnt go elsewhere if u still want a tuner for ur ecu

Come on. Who doesnt want to spank a glittery R34 down the strip!

Edited by coaster

for the record. im taking my glittery possibly stock turbo standard ecu r34 down the strip. come and prove this thing is slow. i dare you!

Havent confirmed with sau but im sure they wont turn down any of the spot payments??? Come for a squirt against some of the fastest cars on track! Wish i still had my old one.

lol ok...

bloody my mates got the new g4 link and same setup as me cept standard inlet manifold etc and it pulls so much better grr lol

swear it has torque and mine doesnt lol and he runs 17psi and im up around 19/20psi

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...