Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

3 Month Old Custom FMIC Kit For R33 GTST

Core Size: 780x270x75(mm)

Piping Size: TWIN Entry (Splits After Turbo) of 2" each, then Outlet as 3" all the way to stock 'BOV' pipe

very nice flow, keeps everything nice and cool, got some decent power out of it on my car (185-190rwkw @ 10psi)

will require bar cutting as seen in the pic, that is my factory mspec front bar

no damage to any part of the cooler or piping, comes with everything, cooler, piping, hoses and clamps

this cooler and piping was made by VMS Motorsports Melbourne

would like to sell quick coz need the money as im out of a job for a bit :D

im in melbourne near the airport and its open to inspection pretty much anytime, phone 0411 50 54 58 (Nathan)

accepting reasonable offers

*PICS*

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24247-custom-fmic-kit-for-r33-gtst/
Share on other sites

u could'a at least taken off the front bumper Mr Potato Head so ppl can see it properly!

general plug: but its a nice chunky cooler, should be a good upgrade for people still running the stock cooler. I saw it being installed, its a monster! will keep your car well chilled homez..

at the moment i have a deposit form a buyer for $1100, i am removing the cooler tonight/tomorrow and he is picking it up wednesday/thursday so if that goes through its sold, otherwise i will re-post if the sale falls through, but i doubt it will fall through, so its pretty much sold

moral of the story : cooler is pretty much sold :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • THERE IS NO IAT SENSOR ON ANY SINGLE TURBO RB. And the one on an RB26 is not for "engine control" - it's really too big and too slow and is only used for over-temp alarming (as far as I can tell). Anyway, you don't have one. You want/need one for the Link, then you need to buy one, find a spot for it, and wire it in. You do know that the stock boost solenoid is not capable of "control", right? It is merely on or off, for the low boost (5 psi) and high boost (7psi), which the ECU enforces mostly based on gear. The stock solenoid is not for PWM control and is not plumbed up in a way to provide it. If you want to control boost properly, then you need a proper MAC valve. And yes, you can wire either of them direct to the ECU. Well, I assume you can - I don't know what the boost solenoid pins on the plug and play Link are capable of. They really should be as capable as any normal Link - but seeing as it is plg and play, it might be limited to stock functionality. Read the doco.   You really do just want to plug stuff together without understanding how it works, right? I can't help you there. I don't know the plug types or pinning on half the stuff you're asking about. If I had to do it I would sit down with the wiring diagrams, the car/looms and a multimeter and work out what is what.
    • Light should be a pressure switch, not a sensor.
    • The pressure light likely has a different sender to a pressure gauge, its been too long for me to remember for sure. Just have a look for another sender down near the oil filter. If you are confident in your rewired pressure sender reading correctly, you can be pretty sure it is just the dash light's sender failing, it is a pretty common thing.
    • It would be nice to see the result, but instagram is a click too far
    • That is a series 1 front end (grill, bumper, headlights). I'm not sure if you are trying to confirm if your whole car is series 1 or just the headlights, but the build date and vin# on the plaque in the engine bay would be the best reference for what it was when it left the factory (noting a lot may have changed over the years)
×
×
  • Create New...