Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

mate i have tge python 881xp its got the remote start and turbo timer and all the security you need for ur car tilt sensor shock sensor and much more check it ou and dont listen to people that talk crap go get wot you want my alarm does the job and very happy with it...

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

You fly, how much do you ask for that!

cost of alarm + flight down/back

mate i have tge python 881xp its got the remote start and turbo timer and all the security you need for ur car tilt sensor shock sensor and much more check it ou and dont listen to people that talk crap go get wot you want my alarm does the job and very happy with it...

791VX in another flavour.

this is all well and good, but these days most theives look at the front of a house, like the car and just smash inside and grab the keys/alarm remote.

I'd personally just prefer a basic system that will do its job, but have a seperate gps unit tucked away with an internal battery so i can actually find out where my car is so the pricks can die. If someone wants your car bad enough they'll get it, its nice to be able to find them afterwards ;)

Edited by R34GTFOUR

The old hidden switch is a goodie... I like the sound also of those new "proximity card lock" things like Mercs etc. use... stays in your wallet, and automatically unlocks the vehicle when you're within a few feet. If it was combined with a well-installed remote alarm/immobiliser, at least then a thief would have to have your keys AND your wallet... and if you lost both of them... well that would be a bad day.

Edited by DaveB
The old hidden switch is a goodie... I like the sound also of those new "proximity card lock" things like Mercs etc. use... stays in your wallet, and automatically unlocks the vehicle when you're within a few feet. If it was combined with a well-installed remote alarm/immobiliser, at least then a thief would have to have your keys AND your wallet... and if you lost both of them... well that would be a bad day.

For cars that have the pressure sensor in the seat to know when someone is sitting and activate the seatbelt waning light for that particular seat, you can rig up a nice little timmer kill-switch, pressure sensor must be activated (i.e, sit yo fat arse down) before the car can be started, and once you get out of the car, it trips the sensor, and shuts down similar to a turbotimer, gives you 1or 3 minutes of idle engine before shutting the engine right off.

The only issue with this one, is you need to rig it smart so that sitting down again wont shut the timing off and let the engine run on keys again.

The other issue with this is it would suck royal trying to tune the car, reaching in and turning the key and the car not starting, pure pain in the arse.

Also, no remote start either, as you have not sat in the seat.

Another fancy security feature I encountered while doing some weekend work was a dash switch, you had to bridge the 2 metalic points with the same hand, and it would detect resistance, and if the circuit resistance was within the right margins, the ignition lights would fire up, and you could crank the engine.

This was an issue for me, as I didn't meet the reistance levels, and the mongrel wouldn't let me start, but was easily overcome with a resistor and some wire fromt he tool box (if you knew the resistor requirement and the terminal points to connect to, both of which I was given from the owner, but not many thieves carry resistors).

The old Ciggy lighter circuit is a goodie, as buttons on the dash or surround from the OEM stereo, having to hold a button in while starting the car, or pressing the button to give a timed starting period can help, having an engine kill switch on a timer with the buttons can be fun as well (in the case of carjacking, lean on dash button as you climb out of the car, sets engine to shut off in 60 seconds, sure the car can travela fair way, but when it shuts off, chances are the thieve gets out and runs).

B.

mate i have tge python 881xp its got the remote start and turbo timer and all the security you need for ur car tilt sensor shock sensor and much more check it ou and dont listen to people that talk crap go get wot you want my alarm does the job and very happy with it...

Hey your from Adelaide where did you get your alarm hooked up ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...