Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Everyone,

I have 2 problems with my R32 GTR, nothing major but any advice as to what the problem is would be appreciated.

Gearbox Vibration: The gearbox seems to be vibrating when under stress (very high revs), I can feel it if I hold the gearknob, it isn't too bad, but vibrates none the less when put through the revs. Any ideas?

Rear clunking: A loud CLUNK CLUNK CLUNK sound coming from the rear, when I make very sharp right turns (usually in full lock.) A friend of mine was driving behind me and he says it appears that the back right tyre is bouncing off the road surface. What could that be?

Thank you.

Does your gearbox vibrate under stress or just high revs? When you go up a big hill without reving it up but put it under load does it do it then?

If your GTR is built up or the clutch is getting old you could be feeling the clutch slip under full power conditions. Remember that your car makes peak power at high revs so could be that your clutch is on the way out. It could also be that you are getting something in the drivetrain or motor transferring through the transmission. If it is a really bad vibration, I'd take it into a good shop or find someone on the boards here that can advise you. You'd hate to have something let go at those high revs.

Not too sure about the clunk sound. Before I changed the suspension on my 33 GTR it would lift a tyre on a violent hard turn - but that isn't bouncing. Could be a combination of worn pinapples, on power and hard turn - the rear diff cradle would bounce due to the pinapples and doing this while on power and hard turning would cause it to bounce as the power / traction works. Again, if you plan to do any performance driving with the car, I'd have a shop look at it.

rds

Does your gearbox vibrate under stress or just high revs? When you go up a big hill without reving it up but put it under load does it do it then?

If your GTR is built up or the clutch is getting old you could be feeling the clutch slip under full power conditions. Remember that your car makes peak power at high revs so could be that your clutch is on the way out. It could also be that you are getting something in the drivetrain or motor transferring through the transmission. If it is a really bad vibration, I'd take it into a good shop or find someone on the boards here that can advise you. You'd hate to have something let go at those high revs.

Not too sure about the clunk sound. Before I changed the suspension on my 33 GTR it would lift a tyre on a violent hard turn - but that isn't bouncing. Could be a combination of worn pinapples, on power and hard turn - the rear diff cradle would bounce due to the pinapples and doing this while on power and hard turning would cause it to bounce as the power / traction works. Again, if you plan to do any performance driving with the car, I'd have a shop look at it.

rds

Hey mate,

It is under high revs only, if I go up a hill, it is fine ??

The vibration isn't very bad, just noticeable if you hold the gear knob.

The clunking is something to do with my suspension, I think you're right.

Will get it sussed out when im getting my tune/service done.

Thanks.

the second ones sounds like a mechanical diff. does it do it most in tight corners (steering wheel on full lock)? left as well as right?

for most mechanical diffs it only clunks when you put the power on, so start rolling then turn to full lock see if it happens. if not it is probably just a tight diff and perfectly normal

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...