Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Have not got pics but its not too hard.

-With the internal trim (if you have it ) removed you should have the back of the tail light area exposed.

-In the corner against the guard is two (10mm i think) nuts with a bracket that the trim clips onto. Undo these on both sides.

-looking were the boot latch is (on the inside oposite the 'skyline' logo of the bar) there is 4 bolts (again 10mm i think) 2 of which have a little plastic clip holding the wireing loom, remove said clip and undo bolts. That should be all on the inside (from memory, but have a look around incase i missed some)

-Remove numberplate, remove then unplug revese and number plate lights and also the bolt that hold the number plate holder down (if its there)

-looking under the car there should be a single bolt (again 10mm) on the left and right side were the end of the bar meets the guard, closest to the wheel, undo these.

There is 4 bolts holding the tail light in from memeory (2 top, 2 bottom) have a look will be easy to tell and then just the glue stuff.

That should be it from memory takes no longer than 10 mins or so.

Cheers

Ross

Edited by Boss-zilla

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
    • Those bolts would be orders of magnitude stronger that cast aluminium though.  And its mainly clamping force, not shear they are dealing with?
    • Except all that twisting force that is breaking a cast piece, appears to be going through 4 bolts in the picture Johnny posted of the BryPar one...
    • The smart approach is to use the gearbox loom from the manual car. Makes it a lot easier - just plugs into the switches on the box and plugs into the main loom up near the fusebox. Then you only need to deal with bypassing the inhibit switch. The other approach requires you to use the wiring diagram to identify those wires by colour and location, perhaps even indulging in a little multimeter action to trace them end to end to make sure, and then.... you will have the answers you need. The R34 wiring diagram is available on-line (no, I do not have a link to it myself - I would have to do a search if I wasn't able to go to the copy I have at home).
    • Hi, i’m converted my r34 4dr auto to manual but need help with gearbox wiring. There are bunch of wires no idea which one for speedo drive, neutral, reverse can anyone help me. IMG_6860.mov
×
×
  • Create New...