Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

just wondering. i just purchased a set of garrett 2860 -7's for my 33gtr and i will be using the stock ecu til i save up some more money. Question is.: would it run and be ok with 12 psi of boost with the stock ecu?

also how would it go with these mods for power. just want to keep it simple and mild.

internally stock gtr.

pfc ( soon)

cooler is bigger than stock 100mm thick+ hiflowed metalic cat

3 and 1/4 cat back + jjr front pipes

apexi pods

also can the stock gtr ecu be remapped?

thanks pplz :D

Anth.

Edited by R33GOD
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244159-just-bought-new-turbos-for-the-r/
Share on other sites

I am not exactly sure but i would say it would be ok to drove it only if you treat it nicely, no thrashing as the ecu might have a fit. It probably wont run very well. Id stick with the pfc i know you can remap the gtst so i am sure you could do it to the gtr.

Try ringing a workshop if your not sure.

It can be remapped, but I believe it's a good idea to wait until you get the power FC anyway. That way you only need 1 retune. I mean, unless you're really nervous about one of your ceramic turbos... just wait IMO. Occasionally they get sold on here for 600-$1,000 sometimes with a commander etc. Keep an eye out.

Definitely go power fc; at least you will have a factory ECU spare for EPA

1500-1900 will get you the fc + handcontroller + tune

plus you can always add mods and have a quick dyno tune to get them to run optimally

it'll run fine.. -7s r like N1 turbos anyway

the comp will be fine.. im running -10s with my stock comp.. but only on 7psi lol but still!

and it runs it with 272deg cams in n out and plenty of other work... sure its been remapped b4 to run bigger turbos in japan, but they werent overly massive... just under 300kw on pretty much 16psi...

The stock comp remap allows u to stay legal somewhat... u could always argue its stock :P

yer stock fuel pump should be fine.. im still running the stock fuel pump n injectors.. although @ near 300awkw.. they were startin to run real lean... so im gonna need new injectors or atleast a nice hike in fuel pressure...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
    • Should have taken that opportunity to slot in a twin scroll turbo setup. Maybe next time.
×
×
  • Create New...