Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

GTR gearbox bolts to the 30's - rb25 direct fit onto 30's

so im sure it wouldnt be too much drama for the RWD gearbox to bolt on. - already getting a modified sump so this can be fixed up at teh same time

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244560-rb26-in-r34-gtt/#findComment-4257551
Share on other sites

It's possible to run the RB26 using your RB25 loom... just depends how much work you want to put in :P

I don't believe that the RB26 engine mounts are required in doing the conversion; my 30 just dropped straight in and we're still using the 25 mounts.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244560-rb26-in-r34-gtt/#findComment-4257706
Share on other sites

Gearbox shouldnt be a problem as all the rbs boxes pretty much fit ach other and the 34GTt and the GTR both have pull type clutches.

Looms will be different, GTR has more sensors and no VCT

Ditch the rb26's sump and modify a standard 25's into a high volume to fit, the bolt holes for the 25 sump are in the 26 block, its the inside row of bolt holes, try contacting wheelworx as the did this mod when turning there GTR into a rwd. The GTR sump is very heavy compared to the standard sump, itll help save some weight over the front end.

Edited by cankas
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244560-rb26-in-r34-gtt/#findComment-4257754
Share on other sites

GTR has more sensors and no VCT

I think you'll find that it doesn't have more sensors...

But then again, nothing is stopping this guy from transferring all the sensors from the 25, onto the 26 - it'll make life a lot easier :P (apart from 1 or 2 sensors which will need to be a custom job)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244560-rb26-in-r34-gtt/#findComment-4257761
Share on other sites

I am curious as to why you are doing this conversion, when a NEO already is basically a rb26 with the added bonus of vct. For the cost of the conversion you could easily put a good turbo on the neo and make heaps more power everywhere that the rb26. Its not like the rb26 is heaps stronger. You can always put rb26 covers on the 25 so at least it looks pretty. :P

Edited by Adriano
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244560-rb26-in-r34-gtt/#findComment-4257782
Share on other sites

I was planning to do this in my gtst but have since bought a gtr so it can hold down the power. I have 90% of the parts needed to do the conversion at home to suit a r33 gtst.

Think about big picture..

You will need;

Custom cooler piping,

ECU,

Custom wiring,

Exhaust (if needed, stocker Gtt wont cut it)

Custom heater hoses,

New accelorate cable,

Rb25 engine brackers & mounts

Modified Rb26 Sump (cut the diff off, and weld all the holes up)

Rb25 gear box or modified Rb26 box

New boost controller (unless your running a single)

Hope this helps.

J

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244560-rb26-in-r34-gtt/#findComment-4257784
Share on other sites

I am curious as to why you are doing this conversion, when a NEO already is basically a rb26 with the added bonus of vct. For the cost of the conversion you could easily put a good turbo on the neo and make heaps more power everywhere that the rb26. Its not like the rb26 is heaps stronger. You can always put rb26 covers on the 25 so at least it looks pretty. :D

Couple of reasons -

* The NEO does not respond as well as the RB26 to power modifications; so in terms of bang-for-buck in the long run, the 26 is a better option

* There are a LOT more options for the RB26 than the NEO in terms of aftermarket parts and availability

* The NEO was designed to be a 'eco-friendly' engine, too much crap on the motor that limits it from the beginning

* RB26 has 6 TBs

* RB26 has a superior plenum design, much shorter FMIC piping path = better response

Besides all the above, having a RB26 in your car sounds better than having a RB25 in there :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244560-rb26-in-r34-gtt/#findComment-4257854
Share on other sites

Stans bang on the money, take the RB25 Sensors and put them on the RB26, it's the most user-friendly way of doing things then you can just run a normal R34 after-market ECU.

As he said some things need a tweak, but nothing too outrageous

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244560-rb26-in-r34-gtt/#findComment-4258921
Share on other sites

There is only ONE sensor that you will have trouble with... stuff it up and you'll not only be forking out a f'load for a replacement from Nissan, but also waste a LOT of time n effort.

I'm not very keen on letting this little secret out of the bag - took us a while to conjour up and pull off without making any mistakes (fortunately bang on the money first go). However, if you are serious about doing it, everything is negotiable including the plans / measurements :laugh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244560-rb26-in-r34-gtt/#findComment-4258966
Share on other sites

ok i found a motors 4 $7200 that with nismo turbos,metal head gasket,aftermarket injecters and apexi power fc

reason for doin the swap cuz i can and theres no gtst or gtt in town with rb26 in them so wanna be a bit diffrent

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244560-rb26-in-r34-gtt/#findComment-4261593
Share on other sites

Personally id just get a motor with loom, and use all the GTR sensors.

Its what i did.

Take one loom out, put new loom in. Give the loom power and so on, turn the key. Wasnt any harder than that.

Then you sell the entire NEO with loom, its worth more that way to boot in terms of resale.

If you use all your NEO sensors into the RB26, your NEO is suddenly worth 2/10ths of fk all cause sourcing sensors in a pain and no-one will be interested.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244560-rb26-in-r34-gtt/#findComment-4269223
Share on other sites

Ah yes... but good luck with making half the electronics in the car work.

My RB25 was rooted anyway so I couldn't care less how much it sold for... I did however strip out all the goodies from it and sell off one or two items that were not needed anymore (to people chasing those exact parts). Made back more money than my blown RB25 would've ever made, loom or no loom.

If he's spending the money and getting a RB26 put in, I highly doubt the sale value of the 25 would even matter - I know in my case it didn't.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244560-rb26-in-r34-gtt/#findComment-4269291
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...