Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Howdy all,

I'm just after some info on Nitro cars and what types you guys have (ed Andrew etc...)

- What is the best brand

- How much do they cost

- What is the maintence required

- Any Website's/Forums etc around that you go to for info

- Best shops to buy from in Adelaide

Also what scale do you use?

I heard something about the RS4 , its 4wd and u can get with a GTR shell etc.. can't remember the brand.

It is something I think would be great fun to do , and even something we could organise as an event in SAU?.. I dunno.

Rob

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24525-nitro-cars-info-prices/
Share on other sites

Generally 1/10th scale is a goer.

You can buy kits starting from about $500 ready to race. The more full on you want it to become, the more expensive. Kit Race Cars are about $1k without any running gear, so $500 with everything is a pretty good starting point.

RS4 is made by HPI (yankee brand). Have a look around at a hobby store ( I use Hobby Habit , Main North Road, Blair Athol (near sefton plaza)) You can buy a GTR shell from either Tamiya brand of HPI, they're about $50 each unpainted.

Maintenance is low, i'll let dean tell ya what there's 2 do with nitro since he's raced at littlehampton.

www.modelflight.com.au for a bit of information on cars in SA, it's limited information but its a start.

Hope it helps

Tim

Well it depends what u want to do with the little car. If u want somethin like i have, which is a 1/10th Serpent Nitro Tourer 4x4, ur lookin new about 600-700 for a rollin chassis plus then 200 for a motor plus then about 400 for radio gear. Maintainance costs vary depending on how well u look after the car and how many barriers and things u hit. Somtimes me and my bro can go to Littlehampton (racetrack) and spend 5 bucks on fuel and about 40 on tyres, this would be an excellent day.

However on the other hand, weve had clutch, gearbox problems, but worst of all, bent chassis and ****ed radio gear, cost about 500 for new stuff.

Also if u have a car like mine they need to be pulled down everytime u start them basically or else the engines dont last long.

In saying that, there was a shop called extreeme hobbies ( i know them they are all wankers) but they sell stuff for beginners to pros.

What i would recomment most prolly is if u want to fang it around, try gettin pull start motor, plus single speed g/box. Also make sure rubber tyres and all that other crap.

I think ive covered the basics :/

Cya

I bought mine on Ebay, Rob http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...egory=2565&rd=1, having seen new kits for about $500-$700 at the hobby shop cnr Main North Rd and Clayson Rd. Couldn't justify the $700 for the one I wanted, so found this one on Ebay instead (and it happens to be an S15 :D ). It works fine and is great fun. Tyres seem to be the thing I will go through most, as I've only ran it a couple of times and they are already showing wear. As long as you look after the cars I think they last quite a long time, and surely before they wear out you would be wanting to buy bigger and better upgraded items anyhow :/

Mine is pull start with single speed gearbox, as Dean has recommended for n00bahs :)

Far out lots of info , thanks guys it is all extremely useful stuff.

I think I will go something like you have got Andrew like Dean recommends , you are right I can not justify $700 for a starting thing either!

Time to look on ebay!

ps.. damn Andrew that is a nice one you got there!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How dare you sell your unreliable Skyline and buy a reliable, Toyota/Yamaha car with a strong gearbox, torsen LSD and Toyota reliability. At least you won't need to worry about oil pumps, big catch can, oil restrictors, blowing off power steering belts, sheering off 3rd gear, failing ABS relays/pumps, etc.
    • Hope you aren't too sore after that one, might take a day or 2 to notice yet and I guess it is a loooooong drive home. On the bright side, tube frame front end is a thing at superlap, right?
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/p/18rmVb1SKB/ 
    • The chart of front pressure to rear pressure (with one being on the x axis and the other being on the y axis) is not a straight line on a typical proportioning valve. At lower pressures there is a straight line with one slope, and at higher pressures that changes to a lower slope. That creates a bend in the line at that pressure, called the knee point. If you do not change the proportionng as the pressure gets higher, you will suffer excessive pressure (at one end of the car or the other, depending on which way you look at the proportioning action) and then get lockups at that end. The HFM BM57, from my memory of previous discussions, is based on the BM57 from a different car (to a Skyline), with a different requirement for the location of the knee point and the distribution of pressure front to rear, and so is not a good choice for an upgrade on a Skyline. Here's a couple of links to some old posts, one from here, one from elsewhere. A lot of it pertains to adjustable prop valves, but the idea is the same. There are plenty of discussions on here about this issue from al the many years of people wanting a cheap/accessible option. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/ https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/  
    • Yeah dunno why johhny posted that here with no context, just post on FB/insta bro where he put it up?  Laine had an off at T4 during Thurs prac, he's ok, car is less than perfect, they are done for the weekend, he can fill in the rest. Bando also binned it like 100m up the road.   
×
×
  • Create New...