Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Originally posted by Ronin 09

Anyone had one fitted? What gains have you found? and how much would you expect it to cost?

cheers

I got a hks exhaust cam gear put on recently but with a whole bunch of other stuff so i couldnt tell u exactly how much ice charged me for it. Change your timing belt when u get it installed 2, if u already havent done so. We havent really played around with mine as yet because we are waiting for the new turb to go on. At the moment its set to -3 degrees i think.

(quick thread highjack)

SydneyKid - in your opinoin, is it worth while installing an adjustable exhaust cam gear when your still using the stock R33 GTS-t ECU ?

I think around -3 degrees is around the normal for the typical mods (boost/exhaust/FMIC). Does that sound right?

(/highjack off)

Hi Guys, for RB20 & RB26 we do both, commonly 1 degree advanced on the inlet and 4 degrees retarded on the exhaust. On RB25's with VVT, we only do exhaust with around 4 degrees retarded timing. We use Jun pulleys.

We have been finding lately that the good aftermarket camshafts actually don't benefit much from adjusting the camshaft timing. They are pretty much perfect with their "standard" timing. So if you are looking at doing camshafts (highly recommended on RB25's) don't bother doing pulleys.

I always recommend changing the ECU very early in the modification trail. Normally..........

1. turbo back exhaust

2. Upgrade fuel pump (on GTST's but not GTR's)

3. Boost up

4. Pod filter, heat shield & CAI

5. ECU

6. FMIC (on GTST's but not GTR's)

6. Turbo upgrade

7. Pulleys or camshafts (on GTST's, both on GTR's)

As you can see, pulleys are a fair way down the list.

Hope that makes sense

Sydneykid,

Should i spend $400 on the two pulleys? how much would appropriate cams on an rb20det with my setup cost? is it worth it?

Setup will include

RB20DET

Turbo Back Exaust

Custom plenum

PWR cooler

GTR injectors

Wolf 3d v4

Garrett GT28

Evan

Hi rb20-calais, used HKS 264's go for around $700, they work a treat in RB20's. As to whether they are worth it, well that really depends on your target power and what you are going to use the car for.

What I always suggest is to pick a power target and then match the components to that target. It is no good having a 220 rwkw turbo with a 330 rwkw intercooler, with 250 rwkw camshafts, with 200 rwkw injectors and a 290 rwkw fuel pump being stangled by a 170 rwkw exhaust.

Hope that helps lead to a conclusion

The problem I have had when modifying my car has been "at what point am I satisfied with the power". Its hard to know at what point, or hp, you will be satisfied with it as in the end you'll want more. And because you thought you'd be satisfied with the 320hp turbo, you'll find you will now have to sell it to buy the 450hp turbo, or the 550hp turbo and so it goes on. I'm not disagreeing with sydneykid, as I also believe you need to match as many parts to each other to get an overall excellent package, its just hard to know how much you want. I've got a turbo that will support 450-500hp, an intercooler that will support 500hp flow, but I find the turbo a little laggy and slow. I'm hoping with the new ecu and a HKS cam gear that will help the response. I may also look into the lightweight flywheel, lightweight pulleys (if anyone makes them) for better engine response and maybe some cams.

Also given time you get used to the power and generally want more :) I think that the best policy should be buy products with enough headroom should you want to upgrade to more power. ie: if I want more power now I just run more boost :) but I have to put other supports in place for that; ie pistons, bigger injectors. etc

Hi rob77, my answer was for an RB20DET in a Commondoor. An RB25DET in an R33 GTST is a totally different question.

Do you want to leave the internals of the engine standard or not!

If you do then answers are then very easy, everything needs to be set up for 450 bhp. Because that's the most you are going to reliably get out of an RB25DET with standard internals. So you use everything for that maximum, as you said if you don't want that much then turn the boost down. Simple.

If you want more than 450 bhp, then the question is again simple, how much money do you want to spend?

That's why RB engines are so great, there is enough information around to do whatever you want. You just have to ask the right questions.

Hope that clarifies

So back to the original question...

How much would it cost to have just the ex cam gear fitted and then set to -3 or -4 or whatever it is? (ie no dyno or ecu tuning).

No point getting an ex cam gear -yet- if its going to cost as much to get fitted as it will to buy it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeh I think i'll message an old contact i had for ages that manages his own tyre shop now.. n tell him what i want n work with him before ordering..  Got this 17x9 +30 Driftteks on 245/45/17 PSR Drag Radials on the rear.. They fit well - for your reference in future - Rear guards  have been lipped in & minimal to non flaring of the rear Gaurds.    
    • If only it were that easy! I also needed to remove seats, shocks, brake calipers, send my car through a fence, and use measuring and ended up guessing because I didn't remove seats, shocks and brake calipers. It can be hard sometimes Can be a little more complex than 'just measure' if you want to truly measure the entire wheel through all of it's suspension travel. But if you aren't going for every last mm then yeah, you can check the space you currently have and guesstimate.
    • If you own a car, and it has wheels on it, and you know the offset of those wheels, and you have a measuring device, you have everything you need to work out if other wheels will fit.
    • Will this fit? but they are staggered set - RAYS 57DR SEMI GLOSS BLACK 18x8.5 +37 | 18x9.5 +38 5-114.3 STAGGERED SET   or If no go could just get a set 4's wheels of 18x8.5 +37 5-114.3 - would i run 8.5's 235s up front n 245's at the back if I do?   Thanks.        
    • Put a clamp on your return line. I have a feeling it's sucking air, and introducing bubbles to your fuel. With a lot of fuel, less problematic. I'd honestly be redoing all the lines in the tank and clamps on everything.   Also, you've given two different answers to the same question: Asked if being followed by the police you could get down to use the whole tank, you said yes you could, so long as you keep off boost. However, you then followed this up that free revving, it would also cause the issues. I'm doubting free revving is enough to make any noticeable boost on what is likely a decent sized turbo.   So now I have to ask, can you actually drive it lightly and use all the fuel, or does it break up even free revving? Also, have you put a fuel pressure gauge on it? Can you hear the pump change noise at all when you're having this issue?
×
×
  • Create New...