Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i always have this debates with friends and uthers...im snoopin around for a car at the moment and i have divided opinions on the r33 skyline and the rb20det powered sil....definately there's many pros and cons...but i want to see wat u guys think...

n e comments on the issue is much appreciated...

thanks

:shake:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24531-r33-vs-silvia-wrb20det/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I drive an s13 with an SR20DET.. at least until I get enough money together for my GTR.

I have very basic mods.. 3" straight through (turbo to tip) and modified r33 gtst's have a tough time keeping up.. even on the M1 all the way to the 180km/hr speed limiter.

the 2 litre silvia K's packs a lot of punch for the $$. and with some tasteful styling like some good looking 17's and removing the rear wing, they are a very good looking car.

i was in my mates rb20 180sx the other day... he was drunk so i was driving... with 4 people we beat a modded r33 (big fmic, etc) ... i launched like shit and had 3 car lengths by 70km/h :)

they are quick and get good traction for 125rwkw (what my mates got on the dyno) .. i know the guy with the r33 and i think it has around 150rwkw maybe a bit more.

But my RB20 vl with 132rwkw still used to beat my mates 180sx with 125rwkw ... must be the weight over the tyres and soft suspension (not soft anymore)... also i ride the clutch i dont fry the tires.

Evan

Well people, funny how people that have say s13 with rb engine say i beat r33's. Mine isnt very modified. R33 gtst bit more boost exhaust, standard dump pipe and a k&n pod and its not too bad for what it is. Rolling start i havent really raced many cars and it may only be the 33's in your area that arent modified much but rolling start my 33 goes quite well. Had a 2nd gear roll on with a friend who has a s13 with rb20 with a front mount, pod and more boost and we were even in 2nd but didnt get to race into 3rd or 4th. I mean thats only one RBS13 and one R33 but im sure there are quick ones of both types of cars out there and it really comes down to personal preference.

That does simply not make sense to me.. why two cars with the same engine.. the heavier car has more top end power?

I get that a lot about my Sr20det powered silvia..

"Oh six cylinder skyline will beat you over 100km/hr"

I have raced SEVERAL r33 gtst's all the way up to 180km/hr, neither of us could pull away. And if anyone was slightly gaining it was my car. Sorry croat but this is first hand experience.

It's a myth that originated with the 6 and 8 cyl commodore people imo. :/

RB20 calais, are you sure the R33 was having a go too?

with 4 in your car that would make the 180 weight at around 1400. with 125rw this doent sound like a skyline chopping sx.

sr20 powered S13s are quick but however they would be very close to R33s in performancewise, with the same driver of course.

ron

pentae, the two cars do not have the same engine. r33's have rb25s, not rb20's.

I'm a little confused here... can somebody explain why you would swap out a perfectly good engine and replace it with an rb20 to gain what is it 10 kw? I understand if your engine blows or something, but couldn't the money that it would cost to do the swap be better spent? Or am i missing something?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...