Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys got a 99 model Mazda Bravo.. only got 99,600kms on it.. by the way runs a chain not a timing belt so no need to change at 100k.. as u can see from pics is dropped pretty low at front using 2 inche drop spindles and little torsion bars... has potential to go litle lower without bump stops in that is.. the rear has been dropped 6 inche... 3 inche from reseting springs and other 3 from tray drop...

The tray is checkerplate and i have custom lights all which no one would have cause i designed them... but aint on atm...

darkest legal tint all round....

9 MONTHS rego...

FRONT BAR IS GETTING COLOUR CODED

interior is pretty stock but i have bucket seats which arent in but if i get right price will come with...

also runnin pioneer head deck with 6's in the door and 6 by 9's in boxes behind seat with 300 watt amp underseat and 12 inche comp sub on ground haha... sub will be removed but once again for right price will stay...

got custom plates sayin LOW LIFE... had big plans to bagg it but never got time to...

will have the wheels that are on front on the rear to...

i am more lookin for a swap for a car like silvia skyline etc.... but throw me anythin...

also lookin around the $9000 mark....

so let me no guys thanks....

just message on here or ring me on 0435035067 my names blake cheers

post-37430-1226991088_thumb.jpg

post-37430-1226991113_thumb.jpg

post-37430-1226991129_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/245371-clean-minitruck-for-swaps/
Share on other sites

I think your gonna be pretty lucky to find someone up to go from a line to a ute!!!! Unless someone is a trady. GL though mate but I think your better off selling this then buying a 32.

hey guys got a 99 model Mazda Bravo.. only got 99,600kms on it.. by the way runs a chain not a timing belt so no need to change at 100k.. as u can see from pics is dropped pretty low at front using 2 inche drop spindles and little torsion bars... has potential to go litle lower without bump stops in that is.. the rear has been dropped 6 inche... 3 inche from reseting springs and other 3 from tray drop...

The tray is checkerplate and i have custom lights all which no one would have cause i designed them... but aint on atm...

darkest legal tint all round....

9 MONTHS rego...

FRONT BAR IS GETTING COLOUR CODED

interior is pretty stock but i have bucket seats which arent in but if i get right price will come with...

also runnin pioneer head deck with 6's in the door and 6 by 9's in boxes behind seat with 300 watt amp underseat and 12 inche comp sub on ground haha... sub will be removed but once again for right price will stay...

got custom plates sayin LOW LIFE... had big plans to bagg it but never got time to...

will have the wheels that are on front on the rear to...

i am more lookin for a swap for a car like silvia skyline etc.... but throw me anythin...

also lookin around the $9000 mark....

so let me no guys thanks....

just message on here or ring me on 0435035067 my names blake cheers

show us these plates...cause i can't see them in the pics.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, this is probably where a wiring diagram and a multimeter come into play.
    • I can say to anyone thats doing this; having done a number of R clusters; just be careful if its an unknown cluster.  It takes a bit of force to pull up; but if it feels excessive then its probably stuck. I've had this and pulled the entire hair spring out; and I can tell you; its not easy getting the correct spring replacement with the correct inner diameter and winding. In my case someone had used some sort of adhesive to stick it to the spindle and it pulled the whole spindle out; which the force seperated the hairspring from the spindal and caused it to deform.  You may have to clean it (IPA); or in my case if i'd known i should have used some sort of solvent on it.  Also check out Cruizin Central on eBay. He does all sorts of dials; and you can email him with any custom designs you want. So if you want like certain logos etc...he'll send you a mock of what it will look like then you accept the order and he'll take care of the rest. Fantastic dials and he can do basically any design you want. 
    • Have you confirmed its the actual axles? Also the wheel bearings that mount on the hubs to hold the axles wear out. I replaced mine as they got play in them. It sorted my play issue. 
    • Ive converted a few clusters for the R33 with 320km/h dials. On the back there are some pads which can be bridged or unbridged (using solder or wick braid) to calibrate it. There is one bridge which is for MPH <> KPH; and there are combinations of bridges to offset it. There is probably a diagram  For example; this is my conversion for a 180km/h dial to a 320km/h dial (I put custom GT-R dials on it with the GTS25t layout) If you have J2 soldered (assuming the S clusters have a similar config to the R clusters); you may need to remove that solder
    • Back on topic 😉, these are some of the notable pages from the booklets that are supplied with each weekly parts update. I never knew the BNR32 test mule car had an S13 Silvia front end... *Edit: On closer inspection the test car still had the R32 body, but only the front end had Silvia panels etc.
×
×
  • Create New...