Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys

i have recently found that there is a misfire in my r33 gts-t at about 6500rpm under load in first gear runing at 6psi

when i run it at 10psi the problem gets worse and does it at about 4000, then 5000 then 6000 rpm.

it feels very similar to when you hit the rev limiter only you feel it the once.

the only mods are k&n pod filter with cai, turbo smart boost controler (swichable) and i have only just put a full 3'' exhaust on this week.

anyone know what this problem could be or any ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24544-big-mis-in-r33/
Share on other sites

ok Robo ive done the search and what u say about the safc sounds good. but if the fuel dumping is my problem could this be fixed by simply turning the boost down?

how much would it cost me for a safc and a good tune?

i do want to put in an apexi power fc in my car soon, so would i be wasting my time and money buying the safc? also my car is an auto so i dont know if i can use an apexi power fc?????????

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24544-big-mis-in-r33/#findComment-524723
Share on other sites

i have the exact same prob and so do 2 of my other mates. i am getting mine fixed atm and one of my other mates has just had his done. it has to do with the coil packs being stuffed/cracked. the cover that is over the top of the coil packs in the 33's isnt exactly the best when it comes to ventilation of heat. i am getting bosch coil packs put in. and i run with the cover off in the mean time. the bosch packs don't fit under the factory cover, so they get mounted externally of the cover and are alot cheaper. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24544-big-mis-in-r33/#findComment-524850
Share on other sites

robo

thanks for the info. i turned my boost down to 6 psi and the problem isnt as bad, but it is still there. it missfires at 6500 rpm, just before gear change. if it still does it with the boost down to 6psi this leads me to think it may be something else because its only just started to do it also.(within the last week)

or do you think i should just get a safc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24544-big-mis-in-r33/#findComment-526296
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I strongly recommend anyone playing with cars chasing anything electric, get a basic understanding of using a DMM, and about 12V DC systems. They're REALLY easy, you only need to know V=IR and how to apply it, and you can work out what your readings should be doing. For a simple check on a light bulb, you're looking for 12V at the positive to the light, a near zero resistance to ground, and then for a small resistance across the globe when unplugged. If one of those values isn't right, you won't get what you need. Now if they're all okay,and you then plug the light in, and it still won't work, you now do a voltage check across the globe positive to negative. It should effectively read full battery voltage. If it's not, especially if it's quite low, the age old V=IR starts to be able to be thought about, you now know though, for the current flowing, there isn't much voltage for the given resistance, but the rest of that V has to be dropping somewhere else. So now do a voltage check from ground of globe, to ground of car, then do voltage check from positive of battery, to positive of the light connector. Things like a high resistance in a wire/join will start to "steal" voltage on you. So now step back through which ever wire, until you find the voltage drop is non existent, you're now before what ever is steal your voltage for example.   There's plenty of YouTube videos, but really worth understanding some V=IR, and doing some even theoretical numbers to start to understand it. Then you'll know what the DMM is telling you.
    • Is Jackie home by Friday?
    • Item 10: Tech Edge wideband sensor interface and display. You’ll need to buy a new sensor. $150. Item 11: part of a Willians 5 point harness. $40 Item 12: OS88 gear display. No need for it now, my PPG sequential came with one. $30
    • I took it out, even though I knew I probably don't know what I'm doing other than looking for power signal lol. Lesson learned here I guess, even if it looks normal, worth checking as it only takes a few seconds anyhow. And maybe disconnect the battery, even though really shouldn't have to.
×
×
  • Create New...