Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Servicing my car soonish, i need to replace the timing belt mainly because i dont know when it was last done and better to be safe than sorry really.

Is there anything thats important to do on a 32 GTS-4 w/ RB20det while im changing the timing belt? I just remember something about changing the water pumps on the 34's at the same time due to the accessability of it or something.

Anything similar?

Obviously ill be doing plugs and such at the same time as the basic stuff just wondering if there was something else i should be aware of. Any input helpful guys.

Cheers,

Greg.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/245471-timing-belt-service/
Share on other sites

should say on your engine cover. Mine says 75000, and seeing as the previous owner didnt know if it was done by the owner before him im assuming that was the last time it was done.

because mines on 165000 now i figured i might as well just change it, better safe than sorry.

ive had mixed opinions about using a different timing belt. The fact is how different can it really be? Is my car reallllly operatin at over 5k rpm at all times that it needs one?

I just really think theres no point.

On a side note i was gonna do all the seals in the first place, comes in the timing belt kit. I dont really know why anyone buys a belt on its own.

Gday

just changed the timing belt myself on my R33 (Rb25DET)

Its not as complecated as you think

the RB25 and RB20 front ends are pretty similar so u shouldnt have a problem

the only problem ou might have is removing the harmonic balancer, which u need a puller for, but is fairly straightforward

make sure when the cover is off that you replace the TENSIONER and IDLER. Theres no point changing your belt just to have a bearing seize 2000 km later

The idler can be a little expensive (around 200 mark), with the tensioner around 120. no idea why its like that but hey it is lol

yeh and when you go to take a plug off you will probably damage a coil.. peice of shit things haha

but yeh as others of mentioned.. 100K the belt should be done by, do tensioner bearing and cam crank seals otherwise it makes it alot harder to do it twice, waterpumps shit themselves on 20s about 130 thousand kms and if your puln plugs out unless they are irridiums I would be replacing them and set ur plug gap at .8 but its one of those things.. where do you draw the line how far you go through? Coolant should be done every 30 thousand so its probably in need of that as well and all those heater hoses under the intake manifold will need attention especially seeing January/Feburary is comn up as thats usually when it starts getn hot

$500 bucks for a 20? i sold my last one for 200 with a good turbo and seen many others but they are pretty much needing the same attention anyway

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...