Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R34 guages are 52mm. If you get 60mm they will stick out a bit.

:( poo lol really wanted the saber guages (on special atm :) ) but looks like ill just get the auto meter ones , only about $150 more for a set

thanks for the info

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/245509-r34-guages/#findComment-4271377
Share on other sites

R34 guages are 52mm. If you get 60mm they will stick out a bit.

Really, hmmmm ............... This is my defi 60mm setup in the stock location,

gallery_32938_2178_340191.jpg

gallery_32938_2178_235902.jpg

gallery_32938_1471_116446.jpg

gallery_32938_1471_237443.jpg

gallery_32938_1471_106525.jpg

And for the record the defis pop right into the plastic housing, they actually wedge in and then you need to make some sort of bracket to hold them in. Works a treat.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/245509-r34-guages/#findComment-4276470
Share on other sites

Really, hmmmm ............... This is my defi 60mm setup in the stock location,

gallery_32938_2178_340191.jpg

gallery_32938_2178_235902.jpg

gallery_32938_1471_116446.jpg

gallery_32938_1471_237443.jpg

gallery_32938_1471_106525.jpg

And for the record the defis pop right into the plastic housing, they actually wedge in and then you need to make some sort of bracket to hold them in. Works a treat.

Looks really nice in the stock position. Good work

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/245509-r34-guages/#findComment-4278501
Share on other sites

And for the record the defis pop right into the plastic housing, they actually wedge in and then you need to make some sort of bracket to hold them in. Works a treat.

hey mate just wondering if you had any pics of the bracket that you made up ? if that's the case then i reckon ill just get the saber guages cheaper option

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/245509-r34-guages/#findComment-4289346
Share on other sites

As for a bracket, what I did was actually used wire. The defis fit very snug in the back of the housing, they are press fitted in so what I did was screwed the backing screws in behind the housing and tied wire around the screw and tightened it then strapped the wire across the back of the gauge and connect it to the second screw and tighten that one and continue doing it, it is cheap and effective and nobody is gonna be seeing it anyway. Will try and get some pics to show what I devised. As for getting to the gauges it is pretty simple, just tilt the aircon vents downward so that you can somehow fit your hand in there and just give it a tug. The vents should come out, after that you will see two screw holding the entire gauge assembly, remove those and disconnect the harness and it comes off. Simple job actually.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/245509-r34-guages/#findComment-4290239
Share on other sites

As for a bracket, what I did was actually used wire. The defis fit very snug in the back of the housing, they are press fitted in so what I did was screwed the backing screws in behind the housing and tied wire around the screw and tightened it then strapped the wire across the back of the gauge and connect it to the second screw and tighten that one and continue doing it, it is cheap and effective and nobody is gonna be seeing it anyway. Will try and get some pics to show what I devised. As for getting to the gauges it is pretty simple, just tilt the aircon vents downward so that you can somehow fit your hand in there and just give it a tug. The vents should come out, after that you will see two screw holding the entire gauge assembly, remove those and disconnect the harness and it comes off. Simple job actually.

cheers mate :) looking forward to pictures

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/245509-r34-guages/#findComment-4290772
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So for the wide band is a Bosch 4.9 correct for the Link G4+ along with a Can bus? Just get the Link gear or is generic ok too? Eg here: LINK LINK DIGITAL WIDEBAND CAN MODULE WITH BOSCH 4.9 SENSOR : KYP Performance House  
    • Bit difficult to follow. Have a look below and see what the standard R32 layout was like. Note there was a restrictor in place immediately before "turbocharged pressure control solenoid" that, if removed, magically got you 1 bar boost.
    • I might be way off the mark here.. there must be a T junction under the manifold. That takes manifold pressure through a check valve prior to the T, one side splits out to this bleed off orifice, the other straight to the wastegate actuators. 
    • Carrying out some engine due diligence before my first drive in a 260RS that has been in storage for 10+ years, and found two lines that are susposed to be plumbed into the boost control solenoid. One of the lines (the wastegate boost supply line) to actuate the gates, had a bolt in one end blocking it. The other line (main boost signal line) from the very rear of the intake manifold (RB26DETT) and runs up to the boost controller had this pill in the end of it as seen in photos. Other than the obvious (T28 Ceramic turbos might well be cooked)  Can anyone shed any light on if there is any validity at all with this mod, bleeding a constant fixed rate of manifold boost pressure off through this 3mm hole?  Is it deliberate?  Was this a 90s Jap mod done to RB26's? Or has someone just fitted this without any idea of what happens to ceramic T28s if they are not gate controlled?    
×
×
  • Create New...