Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gts-t Air Con Problem

1600r32

By 1600r32,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

No Crust Racing Grand Master

No Crust Racing

Posted
Posted

If there's no click from the engine and noticable jump in the engine vibration from the compressor engaging then the compressor might be at fault.

The other common is the blend door being broken (sits in behind the centre stack and to the left of the driver side foot well) You can test it by quite easily by adjusting the settings and seeing if the door is moving. They sometimes pop of the ever that actuates them and sometimes they are busted.

See how you go and let us know.

1600r32 Contributor

1600r32

Posted
  • Author
Posted
If there's no click from the engine and noticable jump in the engine vibration from the compressor engaging then the compressor might be at fault.

The other common is the blend door being broken (sits in behind the centre stack and to the left of the driver side foot well) You can test it by quite easily by adjusting the settings and seeing if the door is moving. They sometimes pop of the ever that actuates them and sometimes they are busted.

See how you go and let us know.

cheers for the post,

tried the bleed door, seems to operate properly. i'm guessing its the compressor but i'm unsure how to fix myself and unsure who to take it to. i have a spare compressor off the old block but that needs a re-con.

cheers,

craig.

No Crust Racing Grand Master

No Crust Racing

Posted
Posted

I just read my post, nice typos lol woops.

Anyway,

If it's not clicking/engaging then you'll likely need an air-con place to check it out. Ask a few mates see if they know or can recommend anyone and always ask for a quote before any work takes place. Be sure to clarify if the quote is free also.

Good luck,

Methods Of Mayhem Film Rookie

Methods Of Mayhem Film

Posted
Posted
hi i have a gtst, had a new motor put in regased the A/C and its still blowing hot air.

had a thought the compressor maybe shot because it doesnt "click" but would like some advise if anyone has had a similar problem.

Hey mate im a Refrigeration mechanic by trade i had the same problem as you on my R32 i got a hole in my condensor and lost all my R12 refrig is yours R12 or R134a also btw but with mine it was the climet control telling the heater to come on theres a heater solinoid behind ya head on ya heater pipes on the firewall in the engine bay repace that and ya should be sweet fixed mine anyways mate cheers ben

  • 2 weeks later...
BH_SLO32 Proficient

BH_SLO32

Posted
Posted
no other idea's anyone?

Run the climate control diagnostics first to see if any sensors are playing up. The compressor is switched on via the ECU which receives a signal from the climate control. I had the intake air temp sensor fail in my R32 (it read below 0degs) so the climate wouldn't switch the AC. Solution was a 10c resistor which corrected the sensor and allowed the AC to switch on.

If the sensors all check out ok, you will the need to check the pressure switch (in front of the radiator on drivers side) which protects the compressor when the gas pressure is low. Continuity across the switch will imply good gas pressure. If the pressure is low the switch will be open and won't feed power to the compressor.

Check the DIY section for running the climate diagnostics.

Hope this helps.

jnr_chin Collaborator

jnr_chin

Posted
Posted

if wanting to do a quick check to rule out some main parts

1. check to see that when the a\c is turned on the entire face of the compressor spins

2. if first test is passed there are two hoses entering the firewall behind the stock turbo one above the other switch off and plug them off and join with a small pipe and hose clamps.

test the a\c again. if it cools you can rule out the compressor, the condensor, the dryer, the need for gas and a few other things.

if not you will have to resort to the previous problems stated in the posts

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jtha7
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • MBS206
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • MBS206
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • GTSBoy
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...