Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've been trying to search through the forums to confirm the size of standard N/A rotors for the R34 but haven't had much luck.

The current RDA Group Buy states R33 GTS-t/R34 GT non turbo as 296mm and R=297mm. For some reason I thought the fronts were closer to 280mm, or will 296 fit? The rears I thought would be smaller?

What spec of pad suits the R34 N/A?

If someone can confirm for me that will be awesome as I really need to change my rear rotors/pads and wouldn't mind getting slotted fronts.

Cheers

Nathan

PS. Mods, if this is better suited to the Braking forum please move. I intentionally posted it in the N/A section.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/245690-r34-non-turbo-rotor-size-and-pads/
Share on other sites

r34 na rotors and pads are the same as the r33 gts, not gtst.

If the whole r33 gtst caliper/rotor is a bolt on upgrade, but you'll need the gtst calipers aswell (obviously haha)

So just ask for r33 gts brake parts, people will know what you are talking about then :blink:

Thank god you asked this question lol.. I was just bout' to do it today..

Well thats fine, its R33 GTS, but now the question is what size are the R33 GTS and R34 25GT's ?

:D Dilemma !

lols.

Just need some figures :D

MRXTCZ

sorry i should of made it clearer haha, the na r34 rotors are the exact same as the r33 gts stuff, but they are drilled to suit the 5 stud hub. You can get blank rotors and get them drilled to suit.

R33 gtst stuff wont bolt onto the stock r34na caliper because as you said the gtst stuff is bigger. But what i mentioned before is if you get all the gtst stuff (rotors, pads, calipers) it is a direct bolt on upgrade. Thats what im doing to mine.

So to answer your questions abit clear, if you want to keep your stock na calipers but want to get new brake pads and rotors you need to buy r33 gts pads and rotors (but have them drilled to 5 stud)

Edited by R34GTFOUR

So that would mean 280mm?

I just found this wihle doing some searching:

http://wiki.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?t...s_Miscellaneous

It shows the R34 GT as 296 x 30 as well...but the R33 GTS is 280 x 26...so surely the R34 even non-turbo would be 30mm thick.

I'm starting to wonder if the S15 rotors would suit, but I'm not having much luck with finding info on that.

Maybe I'll get around to taking the wheels off and measuring it up. I just have a feeling that the rotors i have are smaller than what "can" fit, but as my knowledge of what works and what doesn't work when it comes to brake systems is limited I'm really not sure.

http://my240.epijunkie.com/5_Lug_and_Z32_B...#Front_calipers

Front calipers

Skyline GT 1998-2002 (R34)

296mm x 30mm Rotor

Lug: 5

Conversion Lines Needed?: Yes

Wheel Clearance: Will fit Z32 and S14 SE wheels.

Skyline 1998-2002 GTT (R34)

310mm x 30mm Rotor

Lug: 5

Conversion Lines Needed?: Yes

Wheel Clearance: Need larger wheel.

Skyline 1998-2002 GTR (R34 - Brembo)

324mm x 30mm Rotor

Lug: 5

Conversion Lines Needed?: Yes

Wheel Clearance: Need larger wheel.

Rear Calipers

Z32 (1990-1996 300ZX),

R32 (GTS, GSTS, and GTR 1989 - 1993),

R33 (GTS and GTST 1993-1998),

and R34 (GT, GTT 1998-2002) use a

297mm x 18mm Rotor - Internal drum e-Brake

Edited by Tezzah
Are the R33 NA & R34 NA front pads the same? the data I have is R34 NA uses the same pads at the front with R34 GTT and R33 Gtst ?

just replaced the pads in my r34 na, they are the same as the r33 gts (not gtst or r34 gtt)

Edited by R34GTFOUR
Apparently some R34 GT (na) owner has front 296mm - I'm guessing these are the coupe, as some other R34 na owners tell me the 296 is too big for theirs, - so I reckon R34 sedan has 280mm ?

From a "logical perspective" I would imagine it should be the same between the sedan and coupe (both n/a), because it would be silly to manufacture 2 different types of rotors for essentially the same spec vehicle, also with the extra weight of the sedan it would not really make sense to give it smaller rotors...

just my 2c

hm, this is becoming like a can of worms, according to fitment guide R34 GT non turbo should be 296mm front and 297mm rear (same as R33 Gtst)

but seems like some have 280mm front and 297mm rear (R33 GTST) - but since yours is 265mm rear, I'm not very sure man... Maybe the 296/297mm ones are the coupes as they would need to be sportier and fit bigger rims, and the sedan may indeed have 280/265. the problem is I found the 280mm front but not the rears.

Yeah...it's not looking good for me :S 280 on the front is something I can live with, but being that the rears are so much different is making me want to go all out on upgrading the brakes to R33 GTSt, and at least not have problems in the future with replacement rotors and pads.

hm, this is becoming like a can of worms, according to fitment guide R34 GT non turbo should be 296mm front and 297mm rear (same as R33 Gtst)

but seems like some have 280mm front and 297mm rear (R33 GTST) - but since yours is 265mm rear, I'm not very sure man... Maybe the 296/297mm ones are the coupes as they would need to be sportier and fit bigger rims, and the sedan may indeed have 280/265. the problem is I found the 280mm front but not the rears.

the r34 in na form did come out with a GT-V model which is exactly the same but with the turbo brakes/suspension so maybe thats where the data is getting mixed up.

The GT-V isnt as common, so it would be safe to say most na r34's run the smaller r33 gts brakes (like mine does, and mines a coupe btw :P)

I cant remember the part number for the pads (i only stuck cheap shit because im upgrading in a month or so) but they were curved in shape, not square

Edited by R34GTFOUR

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 2001 BE5D Subaru Legacy B4 RSK (3rd gen) EJ208 (pink injector) Twin Turbo 280PS 5-speed manual Full time 4WD "RSK" grade which means all of the above LQC option which means stock rear spoiler  I got it primarily to export to someone outside Japan who was interested. These BE5 Legacy B4 RSKs are going through a bit of a resurgence right know in Japan as they are one of the few cars from the "turbo, manual, RWD/4WD, 280hp gentleman's agreement era" cars that don't require stupid money to purchase. Which for some people might be a good opportunity to get as a base for restoration. If I can't find anyone to purchase it I will certainly be doing that myself over the long term. Why? Because it's properly fast in stock form, handles well enough for a GT sedan, there's still enough aftermarket and (if you can wait a while) genuine part support to make it a restoration candidate (<-- that will only get worse over time so it's a case of do it now or choose get a BL5 4th Gen). Mechanically it's fine, has only 89,200kms on the odometer. The problem with this car is that the body and exterior trims are weathered from at least the last 10 years being parked outdoors. I'm the 3rd owner, the first owner was the one that had it for 14 years and barely drove it, had a low-speed front impact (which didn't damage anything behind the radiator support) and got it fixed and sold it. The 2nd owner put most of the kms on it and parked it outside for the last 10 years, hence the door rubbers have seen better days but if you overlook those cosmetic details, it presents pretty nicely. There is some minor rust on the LH rear wheel arch which I'll have looked at too at some stage.  Also as you'd expect from a car this age, the clear top coat is gone, leaving a satin finish on the roof.  Mechanically it's fine (as you would expect from a car with less than 100K kms) but the steering does feel slightly vague around the centre position at higher speeds. So first on the list is to get the steering rack bushes looked at. There's also the Lock button on the remote which doesn't work, but the Open button does.... it means that the anti-theft system thinks it's always open? It seems like if you open the car and don't start the engine within 3 mins or so the anti-theft kicks in again without any beeps or signals. So if you got to start it after that, it won't. You have to push the open button again. That's how I understand it anyway. Just a small irritation but not a big problem to sort out. There's only one mod, the Wangan SPL muffler. Just a tad louder than stock. It's a really good mod for those who don't want to wake the neighbours but still want to hear a more prominent unequal length header EJ20 sound. Anyway I hope to get all those things done eventually, that is unless someone wanted to import it to their country from Japan (where I live). I'm open for negotiations as I really would like a Skyline... but this will definitely suffice in the meantime 🙂 *Disclaimer: This is how I picked it up from the dealer, minus the stuff on the back seat. I haven't cleaned the engine bay or done a thorough exterior clean, aside from spray painting the wipers. 
    • Wow, even with the Audi logo centre caps. I love OEM wheel mismatches. 
    • Welcome!  Can't go wrong with a Stag.
    • Looks good. Nice height.
    • Hey all, a little help from the Stagea hive mind plz.. I'm days away from buying either a 2002 Stagea 250tRS AR-X Four, premium leather, power seats and all the old switches etc that go with it, or a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO, pov pack, cloth seats etc, with coil overs, sports zorst, comes with original zorst and suspension and parts. (I think I've got the models right?) Both are VQ25DET, have 160000kms, both straight no rust both with $2000+ in recent servicing receipts, both ride on aftermarket 18" rims. The Aero has a replaced turbo as well. I like the cool factor of the Aero car but the AR-X has never been modified. Neither have been driven hardly at all in the last 5 years. Any thoughts on which one or does it come down to personal preference? davemoto 
×
×
  • Create New...