Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ey, it was raining and i hit the gutter and went over it.. there was no external damage however my steering became alot lighter and it wasnt straight, so basically i had to steer right to go straight.

anyone know what the problem is and how much it is to fix?

Thanks!

ey, it was raining and i hit the gutter and went over it.. there was no external damage however my steering became alot lighter and it wasnt straight, so basically i had to steer right to go straight.

anyone know what the problem is and how much it is to fix?

Thanks!

How hard did you hit it? If your lucky, it might just need a wheel alignment, however, considering that its lighter, not just veering to the left, it could be more serious, bent something etc. I'd probably take it into a Tyre shop and get them to look at it.

ey, it was raining and i hit the gutter and went over it.. there was no external damage however my steering became alot lighter and it wasnt straight, so basically i had to steer right to go straight.

anyone know what the problem is and how much it is to fix?

Thanks!

wheel alignments are cheap.....so thats if your lucky

i recall someone who driften onto the gutter...

which required changing most of the suspension.....if thats the case, make sure u start saving up

had a laugh at your title..lol.

i was driving in the wet once, lost it on a corner over corrected and hit a gutter head on. at least when i hit it i made sure the wheels were pointing straight before humping it. blew a tyre and buggered alignment. only cost me a new pair of tyres and two wheel alignments cause the first place couldnt do the job properly.

take it to a reputable tyre place and get them to check and do a wheel alignment. quite simple really. if somethings broke or bent they will tell you and you will find out how much to fix. they should not fix it without asking you firs tso you wont be surprised with a larger than average bill. I stress take it to a reputable suspension place. if you are in melb i can reccomend you one or two.

i scraped my rim to the max too LOL

i hope its the allignment then,

but its steering alot lighter, anyone know what it is? :S

Also, what about the axle? Few mates of mine say i coulda barred that,

also i buckled a rim, can i buy single ones somewhere?

I'm in melbourne,

IS beaurepairs a good place to go?

Edited by Luckieee

thought u were going to get it looked @ today hence i recommended a tire shop, cos theyre normally open 7days. if you are getting it looked @ during the week , take it to a suspension place that does alignments. where u from?

Like i said if something were to be bent its probably a lower control arm, or steering rack. Hope your rack hasnt snapped?? could explain the light steering. if so i wouldnt be driving.

Just have a look under the front car and inspect

where can i get cheap alignment done? :D

i guess you'r not heeding my adivce to go to a proper suspension place hey?

Traction tyres rowville is where i take my car to or you can try Centreline if your on the other side of town. The guys at Traction tyres are a class act and will tell you what needs to be done to fix things and nothing more. $66-$77 for front and back from memory. Should be cheaper for just a front end alignment.

g/luck with it.

so they got they told u that your control arm is damaged and charged for a wheel alignment!! if your control arm is bent, they wouldn't be able to align your car properly. i would take it elsewhere, ie try the ones recommended by the guys above. and if its confirmed that your contorl arm is bent get it fixed and demand a refund for the dodgy work done @ beaurepairs. if u have any issues call the dept of fair trading or the beaurepairs head office.

if you need a control arm, check out some of the wrecks in the for sale section. or call some local import wreckers.

;) they could have charged you just a small fee to look at your car and see if theres a problem and then go from there but then again your steering was pretty out of wack wasnt it I got TTyres to do to double check the dodgy alignment i got previously before i went ahead with anything.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...