Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A question for the guys manufacturing sump adaptors to fit the RB30 block into a GTR...

Can you redesign your adaptor and pickup to fit a RB30 (VL) sump onto the RB26 block...??

The basic pattern would be the same and it could be a lot lighter as it won't have to carry the stress and torque from the front diff.

It would also allow me to use something like a Hi Energy sump.

I have seen the amount of work involved in modifying a GTR sump to remove the diff, etc and feel a nice light adaptor would be a tidier and cost effective alternative if the 26 was going into a Skyline.

The reason I ask is...

I have an R32 GTR and also a VL wagon.

The plan is to build a stove hot RB26/30 for the GTR and put the RB26, from the GTR, into the VL. The motor I have is relatively stock and has done less than 10K on a full rebuild so I don't want to pull it apart. It would suit the VL chassis nicely with just a few tweeks.

The money I would spend extracting good power from the RB26, if it stayed in the GTR, can go towards the new motor.

I only have to build one motor to have the best of both worlds...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/246347-sump-adaptors-in-reverse/
Share on other sites

I would take a stab @ an adaptor costing more than a modded 26 sump any day.

26 sumps really aren't that hard to modify for a competent fabricator.

Plus you get the added suppport the RB26 sump gives, which the RB30 sump does not.

If your building such a stove hot motor - you sgouldn't even think about using RB30 anything sump.

You'll need something made for a GTR regardless of where its from

A question for the guys manufacturing sump adaptors to fit the RB30 block into a GTR...

Can you redesign your adaptor and pickup to fit a RB30 (VL) sump onto the RB26 block...??

The basic pattern would be the same and it could be a lot lighter as it won't have to carry the stress and torque from the front diff.

It would also allow me to use something like a Hi Energy sump.

I have seen the amount of work involved in modifying a GTR sump to remove the diff, etc and feel a nice light adaptor would be a tidier and cost effective alternative if the 26 was going into a Skyline.

The reason I ask is...

I have an R32 GTR and also a VL wagon.

The plan is to build a stove hot RB26/30 for the GTR and put the RB26, from the GTR, into the VL. The motor I have is relatively stock and has done less than 10K on a full rebuild so I don't want to pull it apart. It would suit the VL chassis nicely with just a few tweeks.

The money I would spend extracting good power from the RB26, if it stayed in the GTR, can go towards the new motor.

I only have to build one motor to have the best of both worlds...

Modified a few sumps now since i'm an alloy welder by trade..

Takes me about 2.5 hours to cut, clean and weld a gtr/gts4 sump from start to finish.. That would be cheaper than a $600 adaptor imho..

But yes, dropping the front diff would lose you ALOT of weight..

The RB26/30 is going into the GTR with a suitably modified sump complete with diff...

I am more concerned with the mild RB26 going into the VL Commodore.

I was under the impression that the GTR sump would not fit the VL chassis...?

The adapter would allow me to use a decent sump such as a High Energy Super Pan rather than the stock VL.

I often hear that the GTR sump's oil control is marginal when pushed...?

(Please, no smart comments about the VL's ability to generate sufficient G forces to cause problems... :P )

Would the adapter cost $600.00...?

As it only has to hold and seal a tin sump to the block it can be made from a much lighter material, mounting hardware may be lighter, etc

Edited by TOBES

so your wanting to put a rb30 sump on a 26 in a vl? the rb26 block already has the mounting holes to bolt a rb30 sump straight on (look under the block and it has 2 sets of holes, big ones and smaller ones, smaller ones are for the 30 sump), u just need to modify the side a fraction to clear the oil pickup area, not a big deal, i wouldnt stuff around using a 26 sump and cutting diff off etc, wayyy more work than modifying the 30 sump.

i had a rb26 with 30 sump (or rb25 sump, i think they are the same) in a vl and it went in fine.

Edited by unique1
Hey unique1, cheers for that...

Makes the whole job so simple and so much cheaper.

Mind if I ask what pickup you used??

I assume it was the standard RB26...

I did wonder why no one had asked this question before... :P

no worries mate, from memory i used the 26 one, it was about 6-7 years ago now so my memory isnt the best on the conversion.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...