Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If I were to get a V35, I reckon I'd run a 19" front and a 20" rear. The rear wheel arch is visually bigger than the front, so the rear wheel always looks proportionally smaller. Personally, I reckon your fronts look spot on but I wouldn't argue that the rear could be a tad bigger.

I have the same visual issues with the Z33. For me I'd always noticed that 19" front rims always look too big to my eye, but a 19" rear rim looks spot on. I was considering varying the diameter front to rear since my tyres can't be rotated anyway, but due to the design of the rims I went for I couldn't go for a bigger rear while retaining a similar look.

As an example, the Nismo RS Concept has a 17" front rim and an 18" rear rim:

Nismo_Concept_RS_006.jpg

and the proportions look better. The V35, I've found, is the same.

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Rianto, that should mean you may have a bit more Sidewall protection, however, if the tyre doesn't extend past the lip of the rim, it might not help much.

these are the photos, looks like not much sidewall protection at the front (1st pic), but the rear (2nd pic) is a little bit better but not much...post-328-1227863923_thumb.jpg

post-328-1227863984_thumb.jpg

Good work on th pics, so if you are going to kiss the gutter, gotta remember to slide the rear in 1st.

That is what I would conside is a rim protector, as such and you would note that the tyre seems to angle away more.

gotta remember that tips... but mostly I parallel-parked rear end in first. let the traffic behind me wait for me reversing if they have to, rather than trying to be the front end in first 'heroes'

finally ordering some McGard nuts which I've seen have a special socket that's long enough to protudes out of the rims for the wrench to reach. The thing is I gotta get a breaker bar with 13/16" socket adapter, rather than using the stock wrench. Cost me $260 for the splinedrive McGard nuts and locking nuts, which apparently one of the best I was told. It has a rotating conical seat that prevents scratching of rims, and nuts loosening from vibration. I saw a sample for Toyota / Mazda (M12/1.5mm) and they're quite solid construction, much much better than those alumnium lightweight 5Zigen ones.

Alternatively I could get Nismo black long heptagonal nuts (no locking nuts), with long socket adapter that looks like will fit the std wrench hex21mm?

But at $300+ delivered it's rather scary pricing.

I'll see how the McGard goes, if I don't like it then perhaps I'll get the Nismo ones and have it exchanged...

  • 2 weeks later...

Finally the McGard bolts arrived, after almost 2 weeks since I ordered them...

The included lock nuts didn't have a rotating conical seat, only the spline drive. Construction looks solid, and quite pack a hefty reassuring weight on each lug nuts (compared to the lightweight feeling of some JDM aluminium wheel nuts that tend to shatter away after prolonged use...) indeed not really a fan of those lightweight nuts.

Photos attached... came with 4 metal valve stems which I don't actually need...

post-328-1229134279_thumb.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...

After a couple of weeks with all Xmas activity - there was really little time to do anything on the car... finally got some time to sweep the garage (yes I hear you Stephen Thorpe) and founding a squashed, dead, dry frog that looks like a beef jerky already on the concrete where my rear tyres must have run over the poor thingy. No pics - they're just too grose - I had to use garden broom to dislodge it from the concrete.

Anyhow, back to the rims topic... Finally got the rims fitted today, yay! Managed to rushed to Bunnings and Bursons Auto to get some sidchrome 13/16" socket for the US-spec McGard 'keys' and a 450mm breaker bar to make my job easier as I don't have any power tools, I need to make sure the bolts are tight!

First, I had to order these as I was advised that having these would ensure the rims get centered and preventing any vibrations.

Found these hub centre ring from eBay. Got this set 66.10-73 for Nissan-Rays wheels in aluminium for under $40 delivered. Not a bad price.

post-328-1230962980_thumb.jpg

Once the wheel is taken off (with the std jack, the front is bl00dy heavy really with that 3.5L engine), I had a chance to inspect the brake job that Race Brakes did a while ago. It's a good job, all looked solid and nothing dodgy. Still got plenty of redstuff pads left and the rotors are doing good (no cracks no scored grooves etc).

post-328-1230965113_thumb.jpg

The aluminium centre hub ring fits excellent on Nissan's centre hub (66.10 inside diameter of the hub ring), and onto the back of the RAYS (73mm outside diameter of the hub ring). It has a tapered side and being aluminium it'll be tough and durable and will definitely centre the rims and not getting deformed when crushed between the hub and the rims' butt.

post-328-1230963298_thumb.jpg

Once fitted, the new rims reveal more of the brembo calipers and rotors behind it, compared to stock rims.

Still not used to the look of the gunmetal after having the std silver rims for a while... but looks OK I reckon...

post-328-1230963368_thumb.jpgpost-328-1230963438_thumb.jpg

The back rims were a lot easier, as they're a lot lighter to jack up the rear part of the car...

but the rims are heavier. I weighed std rims are 22.5kg front & 23.5kg rear with tyres, and the new RAYS 19" are 23.5kg front & 24.5kg rear with tyres.

So they are only about 1kg on each corner heavier. So that shouldn't upset the unsprung weight balance of the car/suspension system.

post-328-1230964285_thumb.jpgpost-328-1230964324_thumb.jpg

Once rims are on, I checked that the offset is still within legal limit (keeping the rims and tyres within the guard width if viewed from the top. They are definitely fine... These are +25 offset (8.5 width) fronts and +30 offset (9.5 width) rears.

post-328-1230964479_thumb.jpgpost-328-1230964679_thumb.jpg

Now time to take it out of the garage and went for a quick drive in various speed 50, 60, and 80 on the highway for about 5-10 mins trying to feel any wobbling or vibration. All seems good, no vibration was felt, so I came back in, and re-check all the bolts, tighten them all a bit more, and it should be fine... I'll make sure after about a week I will check all the bolt tension again just to be safe.

Before:

post-328-1230964907_thumb.jpg

After:

post-328-1230964938_thumb.jpg

You could really tell V35 is a considerably sized car, as going +1 fitment from 18" to 19" doesn't seem much...

post-328-1230963172_thumb.jpg

Looks Good Mate :P Good Job

I like it too...

You must be quite happy.

Can you post a good side on photo of the car when it is in the sun?

Those spacers are certainly ensuring quality to the ninth degree.

Well done

I'll try.... but its a cloudy day today...

and I don't use any spacers, Stephen... those offset just bring the rims right towards the edge of guards...

unless you mean the hub centre rings?

Eldubb, I like the stock 18'' as well but the style of the 19'' give it a bit more oomph look... although I admit I'm still not used to it yet.

Might take a few weeks to get used to

I think I'll pass on that... with the 35 profile the ride felt a tad firmer than 45 profile tyres.

Also I found the V35 has a lot less body roll in stock form compared to a stock R33.

Currently the ride height is just right IMHO...

the front bumpers just scrape on parking spot kerb and the rear muffler tip clears a parking kerb tyre stopper (to prevent cars from hitting the fence and plunging down 3-4 storeys below) in the parking lot where I normally park the car near workplace.

I don't wanna dent the muffler tip by lowering it any further

looks good mate, though I reckon they look similar to the stock, just the colour is a tad darker!

Also at least its a bit more unique, there are 2 many silver v35's with stock 18 rims goin around (myself included)!

Edited by danny_tq

Well, yeah, they look similar, but I have never been a fan of those motorbike-style wire spoke wheels, nor chrome, nor those with studs along the edge of the rims. Prefer a clean simple look, and was actually quite like the std 7-spoke wheels. So I was specifically looking for this 10-spoke style, other alternative was the ProDrive GCG-10E but they were even more expensive.

I think I'll pass on that... with the 35 profile the ride felt a tad firmer than 45 profile tyres.

Also I found the V35 has a lot less body roll in stock form compared to a stock R33.

Currently the ride height is just right IMHO...

the front bumpers just scrape on parking spot kerb and the rear muffler tip clears a parking kerb tyre stopper (to prevent cars from hitting the fence and plunging down 3-4 storeys below) in the parking lot where I normally park the car near workplace.

I don't wanna dent the muffler tip by lowering it any further

Oh well, if that is how you feel, then each one to themselves... :)

I will take your word for it, but my R33 with Koni Sports and heavy sway bars still has way too much body roll, I just can not make it sit flat enough for me.

So, why do 'touch park' Mr RS73?

those concrete tyre stoppers are suppose to be for touch park, Stephen. that is what they are for when reverse parking.

that way you'll fit within the box for sure. They are about a metre from the fence. I always reverse park till the back tyre touch the stopper

, leaving my boot about 20-30cm from the fence to a plummeting death 3 storey below.

make good use whatever is around you, ie I always use the shop window reflection to find out how far i am from the car behind,

After about 50-60km of driving I found that the ride is a little bit bouncy especially for mid corner bumps.

I wonder if the tyre shop has put too much pressure or is it the fact that adding 1kg of unsprung weight onto each corner is enough to upset the handling?

The std 18" was supposed to have 210kPa front and 214kPa rear. So i'm not sure going lower profile from 45 to 35 profile would translate to requiring more tyre pressure, or less, or keep it the same?

On the road the Nankang NS-II is not really a quiet tyre, perhaps being 245 wide at the front and 275 wide at the rear may contribute to increased road noise due to increased surface contact area. Also the wide tyre seem want to follow every undulation on the road surface during low speed manouvre (ie 30-40km/h) but doesn't feel any difference for speed over 60km/h... No vibrations though although only tested up to about 80km/h on the highway - haven't tested on the freeway yet.

Also using the tyre size calculator, I found that the new 19" tyres brings all overall diameter smaller.

Front is reduced by 5.6mm (from 579.7mm to 574.1mm) and the rear is reduced by only 2.6mm (from 677.7mm to 675.1mm).

Although I heard that reducing the diameter may allow faster acceleration (but lower top speed), however I found that during

acceleration the car felt not as powerful as before?

Any ideas from you guys if you're some sort of 'tyre experts'?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...