Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got my audio gear (sub,amp,speakers) all professionally installed at AudioArt in the city about 2months ago (not cheap!). Since then, the right rear speaker has not worked (fixed again at Alberts Car Audio in freo at my expense) and now the whole right door has no sound coming from it. I can't take it back to AudioArt as they have closed down.... What do to without costing a fortune :unsure:

Edited by Ten Four
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/246787-what-to-do/
Share on other sites

Tell albert u been their before and its not working now They should look after you,

Could be something simple as wiring or / speaker blowen, Sometimes Doors touch the speaker and it dosent play had that happen before

Just Give alberts a call in freo how did u speak to Mark ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/246787-what-to-do/#findComment-4289694
Share on other sites

I'm sure alberts will fix it lol, but I've already spent a lot on audioart's install and im sure alberts wont be cheap either. Pretty sure speakers are working, this happened before i even sent it to audioart (work every now and then). Sounds like a loose connection so i suppose my best bet is to take the trim off...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/246787-what-to-do/#findComment-4289717
Share on other sites

I installed mine with a mate who used to work at Albert's, at his place over the weekend. Start by taking the trim off and looking for loose connections. Follow the wire.. if it's old wires, maybe something has worn the plastic somewhere and the wires are touching metal.. eh just look around.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/246787-what-to-do/#findComment-4289730
Share on other sites

I would try taking back to alberts if they will fix free as a first option

If someone knowledgable will help you out like Skyryan (well at least he thinks he is anyways :unsure:) use that option next

If you need a pro to have a look that wont charge you an arm and a leg and has pride in there work talk to Ardi on 0402 260 612

They do competition installs and will not leave you in the shit.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/246787-what-to-do/#findComment-4289862
Share on other sites

I've taken the trim off and its a bloody mess! AudioArt screwed me, their wires have tape bound round them in certain places and alot of screws missing. I'm going to leave the trim off as it is currently then I'll take it to albert's in the morning unless anyone NOR is nearby and I'd be willing to pay for someone to do it right or beers etc, whatever is required. We are at Mt. Claremont, phone number to call is 0431 985 155, Cheers.....

Edit: Albert's do charge me, as in first post.

Edited by Ten Four
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/246787-what-to-do/#findComment-4289890
Share on other sites

I've taken the trim off and its a bloody mess! AudioArt screwed me, their wires have tape bound round them in certain places and alot of screws missing. I'm going to leave the trim off as it is currently then I'll take it to albert's in the morning unless anyone NOR is nearby and I'd be willing to pay for someone to do it right or beers etc, whatever is required. We are at Mt. Claremont, phone number to call is 0431 985 155, Cheers.....

Yep, they royally bummed you. Probably why they aren't around anymore, they changed the company name and address to avoid all the callbacks. :ninja:

But, audio gear is simple, so it wouldn't be hard to solve with basic know-how of trim and wires,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/246787-what-to-do/#findComment-4290143
Share on other sites

since when did audioart start doing botchy jobs...i remember Yandi that worked there did competition and show installs. If you too it to alberts to get fixed...and it screwed up...they should look after you and fix it for free

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/246787-what-to-do/#findComment-4290155
Share on other sites

Thats what I thought but they charged me :D

Update: Where they are taped together, its just loose ends of wire :) . Going to solder the ends together and replace all the rusty screws :ninja:, if all else fails then will take it to Alberts.

Edited by Ten Four
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/246787-what-to-do/#findComment-4290188
Share on other sites

Thats what I thought but they charged me :D

Update: Where they are taped together, its just loose ends of wire :) . Going to solder the ends together and replace all the rusty screws :ninja: , if all else fails then will take it to Alberts.

did you show them the receipt and talk to the guy that did the install? I know alberts in os park would fix the prob if it was their fault. I would have thought alberts solder the wires :S

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/246787-what-to-do/#findComment-4290214
Share on other sites

Hmmm. Pity I'm going away for the weekend, otherwise I'd come down and give you a hand. I've installed all my sound system, and it's really not that hard. Once you know the basics it's all good. Give it a go, and if you get stuck give me a call on 0431681965 and I'll try to help you out.

Good luck mate!! You get a much better sense of achievement when you do something yourself. That and it's cheaper :ninja:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/246787-what-to-do/#findComment-4290341
Share on other sites

Nono, Albert's didn't install it. AudioArt did, and a complete shit job at that (not cheap either). All the bits on the driver's door has been soldered and put back in place, worked for a few mins then stopped again. Guessing its the connection to the head unit which I'll bring to Alberts to do. They know I brought it to AudioArt to do but still charge =\

The Albert's I'm refering to is the Fremantle on btw, as for contacting the guy that did it, he has disappeared....

Basically what audioart did was put wires in, cut and connect them and put them together, cover the ends in tape and thats their job done.

Just don't want to imagine what they did with the other door and the sub+amp+stacker in the boot :ninja:

Edited by Ten Four
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/246787-what-to-do/#findComment-4290461
Share on other sites

I recently emaild Freo alberts coz the alarm they installed in my car wasnt soldered at all plus meters upon meters of spare wiring just hidden under fuse box etc etc, problem is the guy who installed it is now the manager there...

make sure you go through and check the wiring if you take it there.

my 2 cents

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/246787-what-to-do/#findComment-4291222
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...