Auto Window Up When Arming Alarm

[k1netic]

Hey guys,

The other day i pulled out the piece of crap cd player that came with my skyline when i bought it and threw in a shiny new kenwood head unit (kdc-bt7539u) and using all the wiring already available to me got it in with relative ease. The only extra thing i did was hook up the remote antenna wire up that was never connected on the original deck. I got it all back together sweetly but now my windows dont wind up when i arm my alarm.

So could it be ---

a) Having the battery disconnected reset the alarm options

b) The antenna wire is somehow hooked up to the electric window circuit

c) i blew a fuse somehow and haven't noticed (entirely possible you know how it is)

d) none of the above, i missed something.

Now the hard part is i cant be of any use (yet) in telling you the brand of alarm in the car. I can tell you the remote is a plain unit with 2 buttons labeled with roman numerals I and II. I is lock and II is unlock.

There is a red button under the dash near the fuse panel that seems to do nothing but i think its for pressing/holding in combination with door opening, key inserting etc to change settings of the alarm?

I'm on struggle street guys i've been googling around in circles for a few hours now with no luck.

Thanks.

Edit: Oh and the windows work fine normally i can control both from the drivers door or the passanger can operate theirs from their side.

Edited November 30, 2008 by k1netic

[Chris Rogers]

show me the remote.

[k1netic]

show me the remote.

No worries man hopefully this helps put a brand name to my alarm system

[Chris Rogers]

mongoose MX40 or M20 - given the red button I would say M20. find a mongoose dealer in your area or ring hte office in hornsby.

[k1netic]

Thanks heaps man. Thats gonna make it a lot easier to solve this. Your a champ, ill let you know how i go.

I guess its the mx40? link

Edited November 30, 2008 by k1netic

[k1netic]

Ok i rang the mongoose service agent for my area and they've told me the mx40, by itself, wont control the windows up feature. With an extra module, the mpw4000, it gains this option.

Theres a good chance this module was installed at the same time yeah? Not some other model that will make this harder. I'm just gonna look over every fuse in the car i think. No other way to go about it for now...

[k1netic]

Ok blown fuse for the win!

Just goes to show you gotta go back to the basics sometimes its that simple/obvious. Thanks for helping me along the way Chris I learnt a bit about my security system at least.

Good man.

[Chris Rogers]

no probs

[DaveB]

Hey guys, interesting coincidence, I'm installing a Mongoose system with the MPW4000 window lift controller at the moment... I don't suppose anybody knows anything about this device, all the diagram has for the window outputs are 4 pairs of wires, each pair contains "window motor" and "window switch"?

A little vague I know but I can understand the rest of the diagram and have it hooked up and working with the alarm; I can make the motor connection pull high or low when I lock the doors, but what does "switch" do? My power windows (stagea s2, should be same as R34 skyline) appear to need one motor connection to be pulled high, and the other low to drive. Anyone actually wired this unit up to a skyline? What does "window switch" wire do?

[Chris Rogers]

switch means that wire goes to the switch side of the motor. window motor means motor side of the switch, find the up wires and cut them in half. you will have a switch side and a motor side now - make sense.

done plenty of these into those cars..

[DaveB]

ahhhh, thanks Chris. Yeah that makes perfect sense. Only issue I think I will have, is that the switches switch two groups of wires: +12V to one side of the motor, and I think it grounds the other side of the motor. They don't seem to run if I just give them 12V?

Edited December 5, 2008 by DaveB

[Chris Rogers]

nope. no issue there. it is meant for one wire only- down or up depending on what you want to do. if up do as I said.

the motors rest as ground when nothing is happening. you can send +12v down the motor side of the cut wire and the window will raise. same is true with down.

its when you get into CAN controlled windows and the relay controlled ones you need to worry.

in regard to your car you need to find the auto up module. on the S2 33 its part of the switch assy. if its not in your case them there will be a module towards the rear of the door that you will need to find and clip the up wire that feeds DIRECTLY to the motor. thats the only way to send that one up. this applies to the drivers door only - the rest are direct switching.

[DaveB]

Thanks Chris, you are right of course, all sorted. I was having difficulty making the motor work, but when I got bold and cut the up wire, with the switch still connected to the rest of the connections, the window could be driven up simply by connecting the motor side to 12V. Simple Took a little while to trace the wires, I found that the workshop manual for the R34 is probably 95% accurate.

Too true about the driver's window - the driver's connection for the central locking and power window is different. For instance I could find no way of connecting to the driver's power window externally to the door, the only place the wire is accessible is at the back of the controls in the driver's door. Auto-up module I think is built into the switch assembly.

My suggestion to anyone installing a window lift kit in a stagea is to install it in the driver's door. All the connections are there, including battery, accessories and ground. I wish I had've installed mine there, then the driver's window would wind up automatically too Oh well, 3 out of 4 is still pretty cool I guess... drivers should be more responsible, right? Don't wanna get too lazy

[DaveB]

Hmm, tomorrow I might just get up the enthusiasm to remove my handiwork and install it in the drivers door instead. It'll be a heck of a lot easier that way and should only take half an hour.

[Chris Rogers]

central locking on one of those is fun btw. you need to access the box on the passenger side to run it.

[DaveB]

That's right - the receiver unit for the key remote. Took me a while to trace that... there are at least 2 relays run from it. Had to go all the way back there to get all *four* doors locking; again the driver's door lock is treated differently! The convenient door locking switch in the driver's door only locks the other 3 doors.

[DaveB]

Done