Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi ive been having this issue for a month know i did all the normal stuff like new fuel pump, coils, new crank angle sensor, afm so on but hasnt solved my problem if any one has any idea on what to do next please let me know as i can not drive the car its really annoying. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/247206-r33-dying-randomly-while-driving/
Share on other sites

You can do an ECU diagnostic using a paper clip and shorting out two pins on the consult port, a code will flash on the dash. Do a search for it on the forums, the ECU will supposedly remember problems for 50 or so starts. May help shed some light...

Edited by MintR33
Does the car idle roughly or abnormally?

i got that problem fixed it did idle rough got a new crank angle sensor and went away just dyes randomly know say ur driving and out of no where will loose all power and stop

does it idle when you slow down, after applying a tiny amount of boost. i've been having this problem as well. we figured out that the car stalls when you apply boost, even if its a little bit and then you come to a stop or change gears. i think its sumthing to do with the turbo , but then again i mite be wrong

does it idle when you slow down, after applying a tiny amount of boost. i've been having this problem as well. we figured out that the car stalls when you apply boost, even if its a little bit and then you come to a stop or change gears. i think its sumthing to do with the turbo , but then again i mite be wrong

i hope its not the turbo cars gonna send me broke lol :)

I would say it's an electrical problem, possibly one of the relays controlling the injectors or coilpacks. Maybe check the plugs (onto the relays) first, then try replacing the relays.

Sounds like your ignitor if its a series one (being that year it should be) which is located in the engine bay, S2 is actually bundled in with the ECU inside the car to avoid this problem. As it warms up (and its on its way out it) it should cut power to the coilpacks. Once its cooled (or using a cool shorting trick) it should start again. Replace or reposition it away from the engine to fix. Common on RB30's with the ignition module under the dizzy

Hi ive been having this issue for a month know i did all the normal stuff like new fuel pump, coils, new crank angle sensor, afm so on but hasnt solved my problem if any one has any idea on what to do next please let me know as i can not drive the car its really annoying. :)

Hey mate, I just collected my car from the workshop. I was having the same problem as you. I just did my 100k service..the mechanics told me the timing of my car was abit off which was causing the dying of the car and i had a boost controller installed which tuned my turbo. My car is driving fine now.. maybe you should check the timing.

Cheers!

Hey mate, I just collected my car from the workshop. I was having the same problem as you. I just did my 100k service..the mechanics told me the timing of my car was abit off which was causing the dying of the car and i had a boost controller installed which tuned my turbo. My car is driving fine now.. maybe you should check the timing.

Cheers!

Thanks man ye i got all that checked all turned out good engine runs like a dream my tuner is saying it can be your alarm kicking in when you are driving which imobilises the engine and shuts offf all i gotta say

SKYLINE OWNER SHIP= STRESS and ALOT OF FUN

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep that's pretty much what I want to see. Racecars that look and sound like the Group A but with newer tech underneath to make them faster and safer. I'm sure there's enough VK-to-VN commodore, E30 BMWs and Foxbody mustangs shells around to make up a decent number of cars with hopefully a couple of sierras, rx7 and R31s in there too. 
    • Contact Jessestreeter.com/Skevas Racing/JustJap for a new r34 rb gearbox or go a cd00# conversion. No point playing with unknown condition gearboxes.
    • Such a shame places like Amaroo Park have been redeveloped, smaller tracks always make for good racing. Cheers for sharing @PranK there's some good Lakeside video's too. Its so hard with older the cars as parts are so rare and everything was made for a particular chassis at that point in time. Even the V8 Supercar Blueprint era cars are all different between each chassis within a team as they learnt things and made improvements. The COTF cars between each Chassis builder is different too especially motor/oil systems/intakes. The Group A stuff is worth so much too especially chassis with good history. The only way to do it would be composite panels and similar engine drivelines to the original cars. Ford sierra running Focus RS driveline, Commodore running a short stroke LS/LT or a Falcon with coyote and a H Pattern dog box. Could use a standard ecu across all models with a Torque Map and DBW for parity which is not even used in Supercars currently. Hell a TCM is almost a full chassis car these days and the suspension is not even close to standard style in the front running cars.  
    • Dashcams Australia (13/05/25) captured JDMHSE (Vic plate) being a right tosser. 
    • Wish someone would start a racing series for Group A replica cars, a bit like Touring Car Masters but for 1985 onwards and not grandpa's falcon and/or Monaro. I know they race in some historic class but that's for original cars, no replicas allowed.
×
×
  • Create New...