Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi ive been having this issue for a month know i did all the normal stuff like new fuel pump, coils, new crank angle sensor, afm so on but hasnt solved my problem if any one has any idea on what to do next please let me know as i can not drive the car its really annoying. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/247206-r33-dying-randomly-while-driving/
Share on other sites

You can do an ECU diagnostic using a paper clip and shorting out two pins on the consult port, a code will flash on the dash. Do a search for it on the forums, the ECU will supposedly remember problems for 50 or so starts. May help shed some light...

Edited by MintR33
Does the car idle roughly or abnormally?

i got that problem fixed it did idle rough got a new crank angle sensor and went away just dyes randomly know say ur driving and out of no where will loose all power and stop

does it idle when you slow down, after applying a tiny amount of boost. i've been having this problem as well. we figured out that the car stalls when you apply boost, even if its a little bit and then you come to a stop or change gears. i think its sumthing to do with the turbo , but then again i mite be wrong

does it idle when you slow down, after applying a tiny amount of boost. i've been having this problem as well. we figured out that the car stalls when you apply boost, even if its a little bit and then you come to a stop or change gears. i think its sumthing to do with the turbo , but then again i mite be wrong

i hope its not the turbo cars gonna send me broke lol :)

I would say it's an electrical problem, possibly one of the relays controlling the injectors or coilpacks. Maybe check the plugs (onto the relays) first, then try replacing the relays.

Sounds like your ignitor if its a series one (being that year it should be) which is located in the engine bay, S2 is actually bundled in with the ECU inside the car to avoid this problem. As it warms up (and its on its way out it) it should cut power to the coilpacks. Once its cooled (or using a cool shorting trick) it should start again. Replace or reposition it away from the engine to fix. Common on RB30's with the ignition module under the dizzy

Hi ive been having this issue for a month know i did all the normal stuff like new fuel pump, coils, new crank angle sensor, afm so on but hasnt solved my problem if any one has any idea on what to do next please let me know as i can not drive the car its really annoying. :)

Hey mate, I just collected my car from the workshop. I was having the same problem as you. I just did my 100k service..the mechanics told me the timing of my car was abit off which was causing the dying of the car and i had a boost controller installed which tuned my turbo. My car is driving fine now.. maybe you should check the timing.

Cheers!

Hey mate, I just collected my car from the workshop. I was having the same problem as you. I just did my 100k service..the mechanics told me the timing of my car was abit off which was causing the dying of the car and i had a boost controller installed which tuned my turbo. My car is driving fine now.. maybe you should check the timing.

Cheers!

Thanks man ye i got all that checked all turned out good engine runs like a dream my tuner is saying it can be your alarm kicking in when you are driving which imobilises the engine and shuts offf all i gotta say

SKYLINE OWNER SHIP= STRESS and ALOT OF FUN

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
    • Neg, the top one is actually for the front. The sizes are 18x10.5 +18 and 18x11 +32.   I measured many times but I'm sure I'll have problems as this is the thread for problems.
    • Just one thing; tapping tapered threads is tricky. Taps are always tapered and you would generally run it as far as you can, but with a tapered thread you have to stop much sooner otherwise the wide part of the taper will run in too far and you will have to thread the sensor in too far too as well (possible that it will never make a good seal) BTW nice wide wheels, I guess the top one is for the back!
    • Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity. Edit: 11kg each (or 10.9/11.1 depending on what my scale decides over multiple tests, the 18x11 don't seem to weigh noticeably any more than 10.5)  
×
×
  • Create New...