Jump to content
SAU Community

Can Someone Please Translate These Buttons For Me?


Recommended Posts

My R34 still has it's stock stereo/CD player in it, and I want to know what the buttons between the CD player and aircon controls do, if they do anything at all.

Here's a shot I took so you all know what I am on about. I have a pop up screen that is disfunctional in that it doesn't come up all the way and work how it should, which I am also wanting to get fixed.

Radio_small.jpg

For now though, translation of these buttons would be great! :spank:

from l-->r

guide, registration point, route | menu, birdseye view, map/cd | back

next to the tv button is 'screen'

the ones corresponding to the jacks are: L - video, R - sound

hope that helps!

Beau

Edited by insanity

Hey thanks insanity! That's a big help, and when I get the screen fixed I'll be able to use them all. I should've taken a pic of the toggle/Nav button combo, that was to the right of these buttons so you could translate that for me too.

I'll do this tomorrow.

YES!!! I finally managed to get the TV screen to work! It's in Japanese obviously, so I need help translating the text on the screen for the following pictures.

TV screen - nothing displayed except for the text in the bottom left corner

100_1007.jpg

The TV Tuner section - I think it is anyway

100_1008.jpg

This one looks to be the Display properties for the screen

100_1009.jpg

I can use the joystick now to navigate the menus, but I don't know what they say so having that will also help me work out what I am doing. I still cannot select and play CDs though even with the screen working. Please help.

first one says 'please insert disc'

2nd: TV off | ?? mode | Stereo | Auto scan | TV/Video

3rd: clock settings

screen refresh (maybe)

then the colour, contrast and brightness settings

Thanks for that Beau. Things seem to be improving more and more with this TV. Just yesterday a mate came over with one of them MP3/MP4-Video Pocket Players and tried plugging into the Video Input you mentioned above. He only had a 2 band 3.5mm jack, which will play the audio, but he really needed to bring his 3 band 3.5mm jack which plays the video stream as well...So all that got displayed on the screen was blurry lines.

But what's really good about it is I decided to try a CD again, because lately they haven't been working, so I tried it, and low and behold I now have CD controls on the screen! I just have to use the navigation stick to select the buttons on the display and use them the way you would any CD players buttons...So sweet I can do that! Seems as though getting the screen to work again has made sort of unlock features gradually or something, but I am just so happy to be able to use it.

Next on the list is to try that 3-band 3.5mm jack to see if the video input really does work the way it should.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They are, a good friend of mine bought one to replace his blow factory turbo, running a Toshi Tune reflash. Just use their supplied water/oil lines and you're good to go. At the time, they were like $900 delivered.
    • This is an option for 100% bolt on, the GCG high flow -  https://gcg.com.au/turbo-charger-upgrade-skyline-gtst-2iu-xtrgts-s1.html Also, I'm pretty sure hypergear does a high flow that is 100% bolt on, it just doesn't make as much power as their bigger high flows.  Even if you get a hypergear turbo that requires you to chance the intake piping, it is a really simple modification. It can be as simple as a piece of silicon hose and you pop a filter on the end. It doesn't have to be some crazy pie cut titanium work of art intake pipe.  If you have the ability to swap the turbo yourself, you would be able to sort the intake piping out. 
    • Just as a thought, if it's in neutral, thats your drive line disconnect, not the clutch. Clutch slip at the dyno with pedal fully out, is actually adding a second disconnect. So it's not a clutch issue if you're in neutral. Just a bit of friction dragging the output around while in the air.
    • The HG high flow is excellent, and costs about the $$ you're talking about. But it, and probably every other highflow, uses a diffeent core than the original turo, and the original Hitatchi core is quite long. So, I think it is inevitable that there is likely no such thing as a highflow that just "bolts on" with no other effort required. And the same is likely true for HG's outright replacement "bolt on" turbos (the ATR things). And the same is likely true for anything similar from elsewhere. I have no idea if the cheap Chinese/Taiwanese complete turbos from eBay/Temu/etc are as bolt on as they claim. I mean, they claim the bolt onto the NAs as well as the turbos, and we know that can't be "bolt on". But it wouldn't matter because I'm not buying a $169 4 psi turbo for anything other than a paddock basher.
    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
×
×
  • Create New...