Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Trust me when I say the struts can be bouht quite cheaply (roughly $40 each) from any supercheap/autobarn/bursons store. If they can't find the strut your after "because its an import and we don't keep that information" measure the diameter of the black rod, the fully opened length and the fully closed length (nomally the length of the largest tube plus the plastic bit that connects to your bonnet). With those measurements they should be able to come up with a match.

Stay away from wrecked cars - you have no idea how old/worn the struts are in those.

Reconditioning is not as good as replacing in my opinion and its not that expensive to replace them.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248029-my-cefiros-hood/#findComment-4305583
Share on other sites

could use a piece of wood to keep it open if you're a tightwad :P

What about say replacement struts for a VP commodore (just having a stab in the dark here)

a mate has the same problem on his A31, except it stays open for a little while then bashes him on the head as he goes to remove coil packs etc. always good for a laugh!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248029-my-cefiros-hood/#findComment-4306098
Share on other sites

could use a piece of wood to keep it open if you're a tightwad :D

What about say replacement struts for a VP commodore (just having a stab in the dark here)

a mate has the same problem on his A31, except it stays open for a little while then bashes him on the head as he goes to remove coil packs etc. always good for a laugh!

YES!

Just when you think they are gonna work, you check your oil or coolant levels and smack, cops ya in the back of the head! haha, happened to me a few times.

I sent an email a while ago about them, down somewhere in Glenelg a bloke said to me I think it was about $58.60 a strut to regas. But I wasnt too sure what other options there could be. :) Plus, its not a huge problem anyway, allows me to carry a piece of wood in the boot. lol.. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248029-my-cefiros-hood/#findComment-4308986
Share on other sites

i used monroe ones cost 50 bucks each car is at the paint shop now if you can wait till thurs ill give ya the part no they actually lift the bonnet 15mm higher than stock so they are a performance improvement lol

thanks mate, if u do get some time, please let me kow the part number.

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248029-my-cefiros-hood/#findComment-4309866
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...