Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

i think i wanna get an aftermarket steering wheel.

i really like those momo squarish shaped ones...

i was at a shop the other day and was pretending to drive while it was on the wall... hahaha, kinda gay i know... but i like the feel heaps...

just wanna know what kinda wheels you guys have on yur cars? i notice everyone goes for the momo commander or millenium or something... what sorta feel they give? the best place to buy them etc...?

cheers guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24832-steering-wheels/
Share on other sites

but i love little wheels.

i dunno, maybe its coz im a small guy, i find the wheel really large... and the fact that my stock wheel has peeling vinyl, i've wrapped it in a huge fat wheel cover...

cool to hear that people love the stockie, coz thats what i got :)

any recommendations on aftermarket examples?

p.s. chef, check for a reply in about 2 seconds :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24832-steering-wheels/#findComment-528140
Share on other sites

SKYLINEGTR - the GTR shop in NZ has them... u could order one from there... they are identical to the stock GTST one but obviously have GTR instead of the skyline S like the GTSTs.

i only replaced mine cause the stock one was rooted... i just got a cheapo autotechnia one cause i cant justify spending 500 on a steering wheel... maybe later when there isnt anything else worth doing on the car i will get something like this...

1003303271hi.jpg

or this

1003310031hi.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24832-steering-wheels/#findComment-528798
Share on other sites

they dont have them on their site just email them cause i remember them having them a while back... the shipping is stuff all and its in NZ dollar prices so when you convert it over you save a fair bit :wave:

ive used them before to get my GTR indicators and front bonnet latch assembly.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24832-steering-wheels/#findComment-528817
Share on other sites

hey dan, i had a momo corse wheel on my old car - the best 300 bucks i ever spent. If you like your current wheel i would suggest that you take it to an auto trimmer (gary blackmann in richmond is very good - but not cheap) and get your wheel retrimmed. They can make it fatter/slimmer and in what ever colour leather you want ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24832-steering-wheels/#findComment-528929
Share on other sites

My car came with a momo commander. I reckon its awesome.. an aftermarket craps over any other factory steering wheel and while i would never have been convinced b4 to spend that money on just a wheel i would spend it now.

Just the way you can grip it just for cruising, just the weight of the thing, or just how u can really wrench it when hooking into a turn.

Mine is the type with the slightly squared off bottom end.. like this

apache.jpg

I reckon that is pretty nice too - gives you a bit of extra leg room when driving.

i think every car i own after now is going to have to have one.. i'm a convert!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24832-steering-wheels/#findComment-528940
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...