Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone, been looking at a few cars lately.. 350z in particular.

I don't know much about them apart from them being an NA 3.5L 6 and that they have a track and touring model..

What do you guys think about them performance and handling wise?

Is there many options when modifying like skylines or are you limited?

Basically just looking at some general info on them.

Thanks guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248799-350z/
Share on other sites

In terms of value for money the 350z ranks just above having a haemorrhoid. lolz na they aint bad but the engine just dosent have enough grunt, they handle well and have great brakes though.

The interior looks like i made it.

In that price range you can have an r33 gtr, r32 gtr with money for mods and maintenance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248799-350z/#findComment-4316304
Share on other sites

In terms of value for money the 350z ranks just above having a haemorrhoid. lolz na they aint bad but the engine just dosent have enough grunt, they handle well and have great brakes though.

The interior looks like i made it.

In that price range you can have an r33 gtr, r32 gtr with money for mods and maintenance.

LOL at the comments haha. Like I said I didn't know anything about them, thats why I asked.

I'm looking for something a bit newer then r33 and r32 gtr's lol. What else really is there for for around the same price range as the 350z?

Preferably a smaller car also, but not essential, Something with quite some potential to modify, aswell as being reliable!

Edited by MP_R33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248799-350z/#findComment-4316309
Share on other sites

If you don't mind imports, then it'll be better to get the V35 Skyline as they're exactly the same engine and drivetrain, a tad slower, but the interior build quality is a lot better (some plastic dash pocket cover on 350Z are very plasticky - as demonstrated in Top Gear's review), which I hardly found any tacky clicking plastic cover on my V35 (all are nicely padded for a soft click on closing/opening). And again, you get 2 extra seat for 2 extra mates at the back...

But mod wise, if you're willing to spend big, there are tuners out there selling twin turbo kit or a s/c kit. But be prepare to fork out enough money to spend on a brand new korean small car on top of your purchase.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248799-350z/#findComment-4316440
Share on other sites

yeah Ross i rekon owning a V35 would be awsome! Iv seen some nice ones around!!

Id take that over the 350 anyday...

No chance not a fan of the V35 period lol.

Made up my mind after speaking to a few people and im gonna go for an evo. They are a great car in my opinion also very practical.

As a bonus my workshop of choice loves them :D

Thanks for ya help guys :P

Edited by MP_R33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248799-350z/#findComment-4317193
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...