Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys how yous going, went for a drive to the city lasat night and yes it ws pissing rain and i got the carbon fibre bonnet with the vents in it, as we were coming back to the area my car just stalled and we tried starting it several tyimes and it wouldnt kick over, i just got the car tuned down at racepace last week with a sard 280 pump whih i bought of a forum member on sau and it was second hand also, also the nismo 555cc injectors and a niusmo fpr, now what i think the problem is it could be the fuel pump, it starts like 10mins later but then it drives for about 2mins and then switches off, its really weird, the previous owner of the sard 280 said it hasnt even done 200km on the pump, well all the blokes that were with us said it could be the fuel pump because i dont think it has anything to do with the injectors as ben from racepace would of told me, the car is a at a mates house as we had to push it for like 2kms in the pooring rain but just want to knwo what it could be so any help or advice to check anything will be good guys and what i also thought it could be was i have a vent right where my z32 afms are and a little bit of water got to them but i didnt see that could be the problem as the car should just konk out like that if it had anything to do with the afms the car would just be idling funny i would think but yer this is the first time it happened and it was also in the rain, car never comes out in the rain but had to drop someone off and just went out from there instead of going back

the car just wants to start but just isnt kicking over, i wonder what it could be, can it be injectors or will it be the fuel pump?

thanks heaps guys

cheers tony

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248812-my-gtr-just-konked-out-last-night/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Hey bro.

dont think itl be the injectors. Could be the AFM is all clogged up. Have you tried cleaning it with some brake/electrical cleaner?

Another thing, can you HEAR the fuel pump prime when you turn the ignition? When it does start up, can you drive it/rev cleanly? No misfire?

disconnect the CAS then remove fuel hose from inlet to your FPR and see if there is fuel being pumped out. My guess is your FPR has come loose and wound itself out and cut off fuel.

Also your car will run without AFM run like crap but it will run so i dont think it could be those for your starting problem, would be for higher in rev range but not starting.

yer i dont think it will be the afms aswell, tacker ill do what you told me and ill see how we go mate, like if we tried starting every 10mins it would start but then will just switch off again, this is like my 1st problem in almost 3yrs grrr

Is it just me, or are you guys missing the REAL basics?

You have a vented bonnet, it was pissing down rain.

You've filled something electrical in the engine bay, most likely your coil packs, with water and they've stopped working.

You're going to have to disconnect everything electrical and spray CO contact cleaner in there, then put it all back together.

Bitch of a job, but it's the only way, unless you wait about 10 days for the water to evaporate.

Is it just me, or are you guys missing the REAL basics?

You have a vented bonnet, it was pissing down rain.

You've filled something electrical in the engine bay, most likely your coil packs, with water and they've stopped working.

You're going to have to disconnect everything electrical and spray CO contact cleaner in there, then put it all back together.

Bitch of a job, but it's the only way, unless you wait about 10 days for the water to evaporate.

hrmm you could be right but the car has beeen out in the rain before and nothing happened then, so what should i be taking off you think bro

hrmm you could be right but the car has beeen out in the rain before and nothing happened then, so what should i be taking off you think bro

I'd be mainly looking around the coil packs.

Pull the coil pack cover off, and see if any water is sitting down under there.

It may have been in the rain before, but depending on how hard it's raining, the motor may have been hot enough, with not enough water coming in previously to cause issues, as it'd just boil the water off.

The other night, may have just been way too much water, and it's flooded the top of the motor.

But I'd be mainly looking at the coil packs, and their connections.

Hey mate, i had the same problem with my SARD pump, u need to make a better earth terminal for it, there is a white wire the goes into the pump, its the earth for the incab noise reduction feature thing. tap in another earth line and it wont affect it again,,

Just needs to be earthed correctly,

its very easy mate, you dont need your mechnic to do it. its one simple wire to hook up..

In your boot where the wires for the fuel pump are located..

There are two plugs that hook up to your pump and computer n other things, like the incomfort feature for the standard pump, basicly restricting voltage so its not constantly running,

Anyway take the lid off, four screws.

Then take the plug off to the left hand side,

Then there is two wires, on that plug, yellow and a black with a lil bit of yellow on it..

tap a line into the YELLOW ONE, (new wire) then make it long enough to earth it out, tape it up and your good to go..

It will never fail again. and it will start and run every time. I think it must just be a common fault with 32GTRs the sard pumps, becuase a mate of mine also had the same issue,

try it mate and tell me how you went..

Edited by foney

wont be the coilpacks.

my cars got a vented bonnet and was out in the rain for a while, water got into the coil packs, car still started etc, but ran like a dog. 2 coils weremt firing cause they were swimming in water.

wont be the coilpacks.

my cars got a vented bonnet and was out in the rain for a while, water got into the coil packs, car still started etc, but ran like a dog. 2 coils weremt firing cause they were swimming in water.

So his can't be an issue because maybe 6 coils are now swimming in water?

Do people around here not have common sense?

What you've just said is:

I had my car in the same condition, and it can't be what you've said, because I had happen what you said, just not quite so severe...

Smart...

So his can't be an issue because maybe 6 coils are now swimming in water?

Do people around here not have common sense?

What you've just said is:

I had my car in the same condition, and it can't be what you've said, because I had happen what you said, just not quite so severe...

Smart...

bloke there was no water nowhere but around the afms area mate, the car is strating pretty sweet this morning but im going to do what foney said and i think it will fix the problem, will let yous all know how it is

cheers tony

So his can't be an issue because maybe 6 coils are now swimming in water?

Do people around here not have common sense?

What you've just said is:

I had my car in the same condition, and it can't be what you've said, because I had happen what you said, just not quite so severe...

Smart...

Haha oh man, that is gold i was thinking the same thing

So his can't be an issue because maybe 6 coils are now swimming in water?

Do people around here not have common sense?

Simple test, switch the ignition on, do you hear the fuel pump prime? Yes? Unlikely to be a problem with the pump.

No? If the battery's ok then you might want to have a look at the fuel pump, is power getting to it?

You can try directly wiring positive/negative from the battery to the fuel cell thing (the part the wires in the boot plug into which go to the pump, be careful) will let you test if its working.

However, I do agree that its a good chance you may have water on your coil packs...(note fuel pump will also stall the car, but there's more than one cause).

Foney, in regard to the fuel pump not been grounded, I had the same issue, car just wouldn't start one day and fuel pump had to be re-ground, not sure if its a stock fuel pump or not but it was ok for about a year (R33 GTR) and it just died a week ago...(fixed now).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, yes, every CU on the bus is available via the Consult port, but whether the scanner you are using is capable of talking to the TCU, the ABS/TCS modules, etc etc, is what is at question here. Many of them are only for engine codes. So, if you have one of those, you won't know if the ABS is having a bitch.
    • That's now. R chassis Skylines come from a time when the tolerance in the ADRs was a bit more....slack. My car, on 235/35-17, which is damn near the exact same size as the original 205/55-16, is pretty much bang on correct indicated speed across the whole legal range. That's demonstrated with constant speed run over 5km, and GPS speed. It's just the luck of the draw. My particular speedo head has to be the thing that is "calibrated" that way, because everything else (the diff ratio, the gearbox and the speedo drive**) are all same same as most other Skylines. **OK, so the speedo drive is a Navara unit to drive the R32's cable, not the electronic unit than an R33/4 would normally have with teh same gear on it. Otherwise, I applaud your OCD tendencies, and I would do the same if I needed to.
    • Not too sure, I believe the Nissan consult port does everything? Also just filled up the reservoir to full and the light is still on. The float seems to move up and down fine.
    • The speedo's can be very conservative, when my Mazda NC MX5 speedo is showing 118kph, the GPS, and a calibrated radar.... cop mate.....hits me at around 110kph +/- 1 or 2 kph, and that is on a 215/45 17, stock tyres size is 205/45 17 as well, so weirdly conservative with stock tyre size When my Commodore speedo red 116kph GPS had me at 110kph on 255/40 17, so again conservative Google says manufacturers need to set the speedo from 4 to 10% slower than actual road speed.....for safety.....and compliance  After doing some offset and clearance measurements to see what can fit the NC on 17x8 +40, without guard rolling or rubbing anything at my current ride height, I've decided that when my tyres are toast, I'm going to fit 225/45 17 and see where that gets me IRT actual speed of my speedo and GPS/radar From the online calculator I should be still be doing around 5kph under an actual 110kph when the speedo is showing 110kph My ADHD requires that when I'm doing 110kph on the speedo, that the actual road speed is actually really close to that, and not alot slower And going from 205 to 225 still keeps the car within the %/mm allowable in the NSW vehicle rules and regulations, which is nice, as long as I'm looking at the latest version that is.....LOL https://www.nsw.gov.au/sites/default/files/2021-02/RMS-13.464-Light-vehicle-modifications-Vehicle-Standards-Information-No-6-November-2013.pdf
    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
×
×
  • Create New...