Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Who can tell me the technical difference between the 450HP hi flow and 500HP hi flow turbos that GCG offer ?? (and don't say 50 HP please)

I'm sure Sydneykid et al will know....

Is it that the 500HP job can handle more boost or does it flow better ? And if so , why ?

Thanks in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24893-gcg-question/
Share on other sites

GCG Got back to me with this:

The wheel sizes within the turbocharger are larger on the stage 2

conversion. Compressor wheel is a H trim TO4, turbine wheel is a T34 79 trim.

I need an interpreter !!!

What does all this mean ???

How can I identify if I have a Stage I or Stage II ?

DSCF0112.JPG

DSCF0106.JPG

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24893-gcg-question/#findComment-535959
Share on other sites

Originally posted by B-Man

Steve is right - it's part of the balancing process.

Take your turbo off - you will find you have the same thing.

I cant even get the heatshield off - it must have been tightened by someone stronger than me when they did the turbo and leaking gasket down there.

I was pointing it out just in case it could have been a problem.

Mark

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24893-gcg-question/#findComment-539049
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm actually not sure - I think it was "Stealth Performance" (It really is near impossible to find a FEMALE 1/8BSPT to 1/8NPT male at ALL) but having the thing leveraged on a 90 degree angle on a small aluminium fitting is not too smart. Also in not too smart, I've drilled out the center of the broken fitting so there's maybe 0.00001mm of thread to bite into, so yeah. I may have to get it drilled/tapped/plugged entirely. Given I could conceivably tap a thread/adapter/pressure line in any point in the oil system I suppose it's feasible to run a line to the Nissan Sensor to keep the dash working. Do these exist in AN fittings and the like? Like an AN fitting that has a NPT (or other?) thread as well for putting a sensor in?
    • I would agree.  There will be an amount of boost you could run safely with an otherwise factory system, but it would be low enough to not be worth the cost.  And if you are reliving your 20s, you know a 'little bit' was never enough. Personally, if I didn't want to spend the money, then stick with NA bolt-ons, and maybe a tune.
    • Fuark, at least the motor survived. What brand was the fitting that snapped?
    • Wrong question. There's no point in spending the rather large sum of cash and effort to add turbo, without taking it to the "sensible" limit of the motor itself. If you have to upgrade injectors, etc, then so be it. That is a tiny fraction of what it will cost you to turbo it.
    • Measure voltage at the starter solenoid terminal when the key is at start and it has clicked. If it is really low, then the suspicion falls on the ignition switch (contacts or wiring thereof) as causing a voltage drop instead of sending enough volts to throw the solenoid all the way to engage the starter itself. If it is a decent voltage, then the suspicion is on the solenoid. Might have s horted coil, or might hva dirty contacts. Rip the starter off, dismantle, clean up contacts and inspect winding. It might not be possible to see if there is a short in the winding though. I have a spare starter here that I could measure the resistance of the coil, as a guide to about what it should be, if you need a comparison. <parts hoarder>No you cannot have it.</parts hoarder>
×
×
  • Create New...