Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanx guys, I do like the look of the r32 -> (looks more like the r34) Will be test driving the R32 GTS4 today. With features regarding safety , it has ABS which is a big plus in my books.

It is pretty stock under the bonnet but previous owner is a GTR enthusiast and has modified the interior and exterior accordingly. Will have to test drive r33's for comparison but sounds like the general consensus is that the R32 provides a good mix of performance, quality, looks and handling.

Pentae, you've quoted GTS-t power but GTR weight there. Actually even then I think they're too heavy, Motortraders says the R32 GTR is only 1430kg, and R33 1530kg. If the figures you quoted were really for a GTS-t, they would run into the 16's I reckon :D Also only the S13 1.8T Silvias are 1140kg or so. S14 2.0T are around 1220kg.

Anyone curious about power, weight, and standard features of grey imports should have a look at Motortraders Network. It might not be 100% accurate, but I think it's pretty close, and it's definitely the most comprehensive list of these cars and their features that I've seen.

XPL_Vspec, here are some other things to consider when comparing the R32 with R33.

The R33 has, compared to R32:

Bigger injectors

Better flowing engine head (it's not all just about the extra 500cc)

Stonger gearbox

Better brakes (except for compared with R32 Type M, which are about the same)

Smaller boot space (battery is in boot, along with a lot of HICAS gear)

More room

More weight

If you plan on upping the power, the R33 is probably a better base to start with. However, if you can pick up a bargain on an already modified R32, that may be the way to go. Especially if you can find one that has already had an RB25 conversion with gearbox.

I would also like to point out that Nobody has mentioned yet that the R32 is about 5-8k cheaper.. for those of you saying 'the r33 is a more powerful base to start with..' how does the r32 compare as a base to start with after you've used the money you've saved on mods?

I'd rather a totally decked out r32 gtst with 8k of performance mods than a stock r33.

Originally posted by pentae

I would also like to point out that Nobody has mentioned yet that the R32 is about 5-8k cheaper.. for those of you saying 'the r33 is a more powerful base to start with..' how does the r32 compare as a base to start with after you've used the money you've saved on mods?

I'd rather a totally decked out r32 gtst with 8k of performance mods than a stock r33.

Wasn't it only me that said that?

Ok, if you start with a stock R32, to bring up to similar spec (hp handling-wise) as an R33 you will need:

Bigger injectors $200?

Bigger brakes $500?

RB25 box and engine $3000?

Laber to fit all the above $1000?

That $8k is already half used up and you haven't even done anything to the power yet. Plus all the time off the road to put it all in. Like I said, if you want an R32 it's probably better to find one with some or all of the above mods already done, unless you plan on keeping it stock. Or just go the whole hog and get a GTR.

I would rather an R32 GTS-t with $8k of performance mods than a stock R33 GTS-t too. But that is assuming that the choices are as black and white as that. They aren't.

Edit: And this is assuming you can even get an R32 for $8k less. I just had a quick look in the trading post and the cheapest R32 GTS-t I could find is $14k. Average around $16k. At least they are holding their value pretty well.

Can someone confirm that Type M R32's are the only R32's with 4 piston calipers? Ive never seen an R32 that has the 2spot front brakes, does that mean the vast majority of R32 GTSTs in Aus are type M?

Originally posted by XPL_Vspec

Thanx guys for your input. If i was to get an r32 completely stock under the hood, what would the first thing you guys would do? maybe less than $1500 - $2k worth of mods?

Full 3 inch exhaust, including cat and front and dump pipes

Probably wouldnt bother with a pod filter, just get an aftermarket element.

???

No need for bigger injectors unless u're going after big HP like 200RWKW+

Bigger Brakes? - R32 Type-M brakes are almost identical to R33 brakes.

RB25Box I can understand this cause the RB20DET box has problems with big HP.

RB25Engine? - mate its only 27kW or so diff between the two DET engines and the 32 is a slightly lighter car.

Originally posted by JimX

Wasn't it only me that said that?

Ok, if you start with a stock R32, to bring up to similar spec (hp handling-wise) as an R33 you will need:

Bigger injectors $200?

Bigger brakes $500?  

RB25 box and engine $3000?

Laber to fit all the above $1000?

That $8k is already half used up and you haven't even done anything to the power yet. Plus all the time off the road to put it all in. Like I said, if you want an R32 it's probably better to find one with some or all of the above mods already done, unless you plan on keeping it stock. Or just go the whole hog and get a GTR.

I would rather an R32 GTS-t with $8k of performance mods than a stock R33 GTS-t too. But that is assuming that the choices are as black and white as that. They aren't.

Edit: And this is assuming you can even get an R32 for $8k less. I just had a quick look in the trading post and the cheapest R32 GTS-t I could find is $14k. Average around $16k. At least they are holding their value pretty well.

I can't figure out why people choose their cars based on how common they are. Do you really care that much about what other people think?

Yer, people are silly choosing a car on that basis. If you look at it that way then ANY skyline is common, except maybe for an R34 GTR or something.

They are much of a muchness in terms of most things and everything seems to balance out a bit.. and don't forget being "more common" for a 33 is often a good thing, means parts and advice might be more readily available.

Personally I think this 'common' argument is a little specious.

GTS Skylines are cheap performance cars. For less than $20,000 you're not gonna get a whole lot of exclusivity.

Even twice that for a GT-R isn't gonna get you into some sort of "LOOK AT ME, I CAN DUST FERRARI's" fraternity.

I was looking for power, handling, braking, size (yes I like BIG cars), reasonably cheap mods and a big cabin (show me a bigger coupe interior).

The 33 is really close enough. I really want that 33 GT-R - it's not twice as good but I'll be willing to pay the price to find out.

T.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...