Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guyz,

i got 200zr with old NICS rb20det, just wondering main differences between NICS and ECCS? i know turbo is diff but what bout injectors, afm and ECU?

I have an r32 turbo on atm but going the r33 route soon, just wonderin if this is straight bolt on yeh?

also canthe NICS version be epromed or even tuned thorugh ECU?

Also the stock boost controller has an electronic like solenoid connected to the vacuum piping to wastegate, can i wire in EBC around this?

any info much appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25015-rb20det-nics-info/
Share on other sites

AFM & ECU different Injectors are same. the main Difference are the inlet manifold. the NICS has a 12 port inlet manifold the head is 6 port, there are two sets of runners on the NICS and only 6 on the ECCS, the theory on the NICS was that the two set of 6 runners are different length under low revs, or take off, the long ports are open giving more torque in theory. After the revs build up the second lot of runners are opened through the butterflys which are shorter for top end power. Turbo yes the RB25 bolts straight on, but you must get the banjos and oil lines as well. Next quetion the NICS chip is currently being worked on by a couple of people to see if it can be re-programmed so will have to wait and see.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25015-rb20det-nics-info/#findComment-531580
Share on other sites

Originally posted by R32-GTS

THe injectors are different . Even on the red top. So get some first hand experience before correcting me.

well R31Heaven... be prepared to stand correct by the man with the expirirance :) :bahaha: :bahaha:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25015-rb20det-nics-info/#findComment-536105
Share on other sites

Originally posted by rsx84

theres an old hpi mag that has all the ins and outs to do with the red top rb20 if you pm me if you still need info i'll scan it and send it to you.

if it's from a year or two back...

Or maybe longer.

I've got that one (about 5 copies of it :() R31Heaven i think i've showed you a copy of it long ago...

It doesnt really have a lot of stuff in it though.

rsx84, can you scan it and e-mail it to me?

[email protected]

I just wanna make sure i've got the same one.

thanks. ash

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25015-rb20det-nics-info/#findComment-549146
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
×
×
  • Create New...