Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 64
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The JMS R33 RB25DET has had a little bit of work on the exhaust ports and a tomi cam inserted on the exhaust side. The intake cam is standard.

I am interested to see if it is still running 100% after the drift day with so much rev limiter bouncing. Towards the end of the day I swear I saw a little bit of smoke starting to appear from the exhaust.

Originally posted by -Joel-

Its not a street driven car.. or a 1/4 runner.

So its not that unbelievable.

Apparently the bottom end is a R34 RB25DET.

Not sure if they are any better or stronger?!?

Isnt it their drift car? If so it'd cop a fair bit of high end thrashing on the track. Drift cars get extremely hot, hence oil coolers, good venting etc etc

i for one am still going with the fact that tomei don't make 264's, if it's not on their website? which tomei put up themselves then i don't think they would make it :D maybe ya'll are using the tomei 260 degree camshafts

adria n:p

Don't you think for a moment that even though Tomei's website only lists their current 2003 catalogue they may have made some items not currently on offer? Going by your reasoning HKS never made a 2.8 liter kit with a spacer plate, nor any non-lcd boost controllers in the EVC range...

yo doughboy, i looked up tomei 264 cams ages ago(2002) and i just looked em up recently(2003) and it says the same shit okay

fair enough they might not list everything yeah, don't have to be a knobshiner when making ur point yeah?

adrian :P

SydneyKid, I was wrong. They put in Iskenderian Springs as well. Which, as you may know, makes no difference to the output cause it would have made almost the same power with those springs and stock cams.

Listen champ, read the zoom article which has the GTiR special in it. The car is in there. It had some decent hardware on it too in terms of turbo, cooler, fuel system, management etc. This all determines the engine's ability to make use of the new cams. (I hope you knew this)

But if your engine is as 'tuff' as you make it out to be, feel free to outline the deal again, write up a contract what-have-you and you are definitely on.

Tell me the mods to your engine and external hardware, bolt in some stock cams with good springs to suit the new cams, bring it up and we'll run it. Switch the cams, degree them in, RE-TUNE the engine, and you will lose bud. Thats a guarantee.

Don't forget, you started this bitch fight by claiming I was wrong, so if you are keen enough to argue, feel free to come up. We just manufacture camshafts for our customers as best we can- and they work.

Springs go for around (Don't quote me, cause I'm a bit boozed) $500 I think. Could be less could be more.

We make the retainers at work. Titanium is not suprisingly quite a bit dearer than steel. Our metal selection is quite good and the steel ones work a treat. But if you're really serious about revs, then we can do Titanium.

Do us a favour? Call on Monday at work to get prices please. I just used my standard ones and modified them a touch. But we are selling a few cam and spring packages now, so I guess I'll design some retainers and use them!

Luke

Ivan Tighe Engineering (Tighe Cams)

3271 6001

Hi lukevl, I know the article, in a GTiR s it’s an SR not an RB. Before you agree to this I strongly suggest you do a bit of research on SR versus RB in the camshaft area. Our experience has been that SR's standard camshafts are very very mild in comparison to standard RB camshafts. They benefit a whole lot more from camshaft upgrades than any RB I have had experience with.

Let's make sure you know what you are getting into here......

The 3.1 litre engine is on the engine stand, it has;

JE forged Pistons

Total Seal gapless rings

Carillo forged conrods

ARP rod bolts, head and main studs

9 to 1 compression ratio

o'ringed block

HKS exhaust manifold

Garrett GT3040

GTR Intercooler (PWR tube and fin core)

Clevite bearings

N1 GTR oil pump

N1 GTR water pump

Winged and baffled sump

RB26 head, throttle bodies and plenum

Head is ported and both manifolds are matched

(it flows 645 bhp on the flow bench at 2 bar vacuum)

Iskendarian valve springs

Titanium retainers

Tomei head gasket

Jun adjustable cam pulleys

Standard R32 GTR camshafts

Power FC ECU

I haven't run this one on the engine dyno yet, but it's older sister (there are 5 in the current batch) using a Motec M48 Pro made 625 bhp at 7,250 rpm using Elf LMS. Noting that these are circuit race engines, so they need a 3,000 rpm wide power band.

So, my understanding of our deal is this;

I run my engine up on the engine dyno and establish a base power graph (no reason it should be much different to its sister at 625 bhp). We change the camshafts only, retune it (change whatever you like, but no boost increase). If it makes 150 bhp more (that's 775 bhp) then I pay you for the camshafts and $1K for you personally. If it makes less than 775 bhp I get the camshafts for free.

Is this your understanding? Have I missed anything?

Timing is a little tricky as we have a lot of work on before the Bathursts (1,000 k and 2 Hour), but then it gets a bit quieter. Mid December would be good for me, is that OK for you?

I meant the Zoom MAG with the GTiR special in it. The article on the Calais with the RB in it is in that mag. It kinda made sense.

If I knew how to quote posts, I would highlight these points

1. 140hp (NOT 150) was gained at the wheels.

2. This was made as an improvement over stock RB25DET camshafts.

3. You said they won't make more than 40hp. Now we have to beat 150hp?? Talk about raising the bar champ.

4. The power increase was within the Turbo's HP range. Its kinda hard to increase HP by heaps when you are already maxing out the airflow of the GT3040.

5. My comment was that the RB25 in question could easily go from 450atw to 500 with the right camshafts.

6. Stop piss-farting about and changing your mind.

The bottom line is, our cams are good and they will improve the HP of your engine by way more than 40hp which you claimed was the max.

Your post was not correct, you did miss everything. If you were serious you would understand what camshafts can do for an engine and not just use 'forgies and more boost'

Speak to you when you call us to organise a time and venue.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
    • Is this a brand new LSD? if so, have you followed any break/bed in procedure for it? Usually involves heaps of figure 8 patterns, a fluid flush.
    • It's TWO steering wheels actually. 😛 one for each hand They are wheels, and they steer!
×
×
  • Create New...