Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Just bought a 92 r32 5speed manual off an old fella, however its done 200k's but service history every 5k's and its in good cond :( , got it for 6 grank on road :blink: .

Now just before I start moding it, I wanna be sure my check list is good. Can you guys tell me if I'm missing any thing?

(List is in order of mods)

-Full 3inch stainless steel turbo back exhuast

-GTR / Wallbro Fuel Pump (Whats recommended?)

-GTR injectors

-Hybrid FMIC

-T3/T4 turbo (What turbo is best recommened?)

-Then get it tuned.

Missing anything? The gearbox and diff can handle the power?

Thanks for the help

Cheers,

Alan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251132-r32-rb20-modifications/
Share on other sites

Hmm, maybe not quite in that order but basically you're on the right track.

For power try air filter and exhaust for starters. You have to think carefully about where you want to go because the fuel pump, injectors, turbo and fmic upgrade are all dependent on power figures you're aiming for. You can fit the fuel pump and the fmic without getting a tune but you wont see much gain (as they are supporting mods) unless you add some more boost on the stock turbo.

Turbo and injectors requires tune and that's when you'll see some serious power.

Work out your power goal first then buy/build accordingly. The Turbo, injectors and tune really need to be done all at once. The rest you can do without upsetting existing systems too much.

Don't forget that you may need a clutch and you'll probably want better suspension and brakes also.

Have a look through the forums as there's a boatload of R32 lovers here all who have done the same things you're talking about.

Check the RB20DET turbo thread for turbo options.

Cheers

Edited by ActionDan

Things you can do without needing a tune:

Exhaust

Fuel pump (my suggestion is a Bosch 044)

pod/CAI

FMIC

RB25 turbo

Suspension

Brakes

Gearbox (depending on how much power you want, it's not going to live very long - I killed 1x RB20 box with the RB20 and another with the RB30)

Diff (2-way ftw :blink:)

As for the rest, as mentioned, pick a power goal and go from there :(

gday mate... congrats on your purchase...

for overall good street performance.. heres my thinking (also what im doing to my r32)

1. full service.. engine, gbox and diff oil, oil + fuel filters, plugs, timing belt, drive belts.. compression check, etc.

2. turbo back exhaust (incl cat) + air filter

3. fmic

4. coilovers

5. boost

6. clutch

7. R33 gtr wheels and good tyres (failing the wheels... R32 gtr wheels with good tyres)

8. bosch z32 afm and SAFC2 to run it and new 02 sensor

9. walbro/bosch intank fuel pump

10. VG30 turbo or hks 2530 (if your budget allows it)

all up thats around $6000 (going off cheaper brands but brand new) so check around here and ebay for bargains and you can reduce this amount much more or get much better brands. i got a set of near new cusco coilovers for $570 off ebay just by chance.. so the bargains are out there... and if you stick to this list.. it can be done over time and you wont get bored... frustrated yes... but not bored.

also... remember you have a 2L... which is great fun... but not much poke... but it has enough for really good usable power, and its bullet proof, coming from a really powerful rb25det... i enjoy the usable power in the rb20

street cars should have a good overall balance in handling, power, grip, and slip.. which the r32 is well capable of.

no point having all the mods to make 250rwkw if youve got crap tyres that cant handle it... or a slipping clutch that is losing 60% of your power.. or it wont go round a corner nicely because its all sloppy.

cheers

Linton

Hey guys,

Thanks for the input. I have done a full major service - got timing belt replaced, plugs, oil/filters, diff and gearbox service. So i know the car is in good shape. I've just put a heavy duty clutch in!

Stage 1

The first thing i put on will be a turbo 3' stainless steel exhuast and air filter

Then get a hybrid FMIC and fuel pump.

Stage 2

After these basic mods I'll look into some serious power by upgrading my turbo to a RB25 turbo/VG30 turbo/hks 2530, see what i can get for the best price. (Was looking into KKR, but read in the forums there no good!). GTR injectors, then a tune and ecu re map.

I'll keep it posted with photos and updates and hopfuly dont encounter any problems.

Thanks again for your help :blush:

Alan

NO!! Way too big for an rb20. Depends what you want to use the car for. Thats the first thing you have to deside. Do you want it to make 250rwkw and have nothing low down or would you rather have lots of power right through the rev range which is better if its a daily. If your not chasing big power then buy a r33 turbo. They are cheap and go heaps better than rb20 stock turbo. If you want a bit more power and dont mind the lag you can get a r34 turbo. Aftermarket ones will cost a lot more and certainly require an aftermarket ecu although i would recomend a re-tune which any change in turbo.

Good luck

like i said mate, you have to be realistic in your power... a standard rb20 turbo will propel the car much harder if you spent money on some semi slick tyres rather than spend the same money and sit there spinning.

that said... the standard turbo with a smidgen of boost is enough to propel the car well over the speed limit of any roads... therefore why not spend the money to get it handling shmick and putting the power that it has, down to the ground where it belongs.

What I've figured out after nearly 40 years (holy sh!t !) of driving:

Step 1 - Make it stop

Step 2 - Make it handle

Step 3 - now, make it go.

If you do steps 1 & 2 properly, you won't need to spend nearly as much on step 3.

What I've figured out after nearly 40 years (holy sh!t !) of driving:

Step 1 - Make it stop

Step 2 - Make it handle

Step 3 - now, make it go.

If you do steps 1 & 2 properly, you won't need to spend nearly as much on step 3.

+1

Although I did steps 1 & 2 reversed and in between them through a 25 turbo on there for a bit of extra poke. Now I've gone bigger engine, bigger brakes again and soon an even bigger turbo :cheers:

-Full 3inch stainless steel turbo back exhuast

-Pod filter

-Bosch 044) Fuel Pump

-GTR injectors

-Hybrid FMIC (doesnt have to be that brand there all the same unless your building a track car that needs the best cooling street/ minor track cars dont any is fine)

-T3/T4 turbo (2530 for 300 HP depends if you want to go more (have a look at some hypergear stuff) but if you go more you will need bigger injectors)

-Then get it tuned.

like i said mate, you have to be realistic in your power... a standard rb20 turbo will propel the car much harder if you spent money on some semi slick tyres rather than spend the same money and sit there spinning.

that said... the standard turbo with a smidgen of boost is enough to propel the car well over the speed limit of any roads... therefore why not spend the money to get it handling shmick and putting the power that it has, down to the ground where it belongs.

How much boost/psi can the sotck rb20 turbo handle, i saw it in one of the forums for a r33 rb20 that it can handle abt 10-12psi, this accurate?

What I've figured out after nearly 40 years (holy sh!t !) of driving:

Step 1 - Make it stop

Step 2 - Make it handle

Step 3 - now, make it go.

If you do steps 1 & 2 properly, you won't need to spend nearly as much on step 3.

I just put a nice set of new brakes and gonna put some nice coilovers. Already got a good set of thick tyres.. Thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
×
×
  • Create New...